BERLIN


14 HOU RS IN Berlin


10AM STAINED GLASS IN THE GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE Berlin’s history takes concrete form at the Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Church) on Kurfürstendamm. The original 19th-century structure was hammered by Allied bombs in 1943 and then partially rebuilt after the Second World War, with the wreck of the old central spire preserved in the middle. The modernist architecture is stern, uncompromising stuff — until you go inside the chapel. Set into its honeycomb walls are hundreds of panes of stained glass, glowing an ethereal blue. gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de


Clockwise from top left: The Gedächtniskirche’s stained glass windows; Café Babette, in the Kindl — Centre for Contemporary Art, sits in an old brewery; the Urban Nation gallery


11AM PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITS AT THE C/O BERLIN GALLERY Strong, smooth coff ee awaits just 450m from the Gedächtniskirche, in the cafe at C/O Berlin. The former Amerika Haus cultural centre, with its elegant 1950s setting, is now better known as one of Berlin’s best photography galleries — with a track record of socially engaged and intelligently curated exhibitions, as well as an art bookshop that’s impossible to resist. co-berlin.org


1PM LUNCH AT NENI Don’t leave the area without fi rst taking the lift to this 10th-fl oor restaurant on Budapester Strasse, next to the leafy Tiergarten park. Make sure you book ahead and insist on a table on the north side, so you can gaze in wonder over 520 acres of inner-city trees as you enjoy the likes of Korean fried chicken salad with peanuts and pickled pomegranate, and spicy caramelised aubergine with toasted sesame and Japanese rice (mains from €18.50/£16). You might also fi nd yourself searching for Norman Foster’s Reichstag dome on the horizon. neniberlin.de


2PM STREET ART AT URBAN NATION MUSEUM This free gallery of contemporary art is just fi ve minutes on the U2 underground line, and is funded by one of Berlin’s largest municipal housing associations, Gewobag. Through a series of scholarships and community projects, Gewobag also encourages murals on its own apartment blocks. This means you can feast on vivid paintings inside the gallery, then follow with a side-order of street art in Bülowstrasse immediately outside. urban-nation.com


MARCH 2024 139


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