January 2024


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negotiate on foot or via the tram network. The range of food and drinks as everywhere is vast in both choice and price-point. I took the opportunity to sample Okonomiyaki, a local favourite. Where better to sample it than where you see the locals queuing to get in! It wasn’t long before I was sat in front of a hot griddle watching the preparation of my dinner – basically a thin pancake topped with cabbage then noodles fried in what looked like teppanyaki sauce, then flipped onto a flattened thin-egg omelette, flipped again and topped with scallions – you can also add other toppings such, cheese, meat, squid etc. Gorgeous & cheap as chips! Fukuoka/Hakata


Another 70 minute train journey across nearly 300km took me to Fukuoka, the gateway to Kyushu, Japan’s southern and westernmost Island.


Wagyu meat. Hiroshima


Another short hop on the Shinkansen from Kobe to Hiroshima took just over an hour. An easy tram ride (Streetcar as the locals call them) connected me to my hotel – The Dormy Inn, which cost roughly £80 per night and again had all the facilities including Onsen,


afternoon ice-creams


and late-night ramen noodles included. The hotel was ideally placed to explore the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park, a short distance away.


A lovely green park with large wide-open spaces, situated alongside a river, this area attempts to bring solemn remembrance to the tragic consequences which befell the city when the first atom bomb used against it in anger. This action which although instrumental in bringing about the end of the war, killed approx. 80,000 people immediately and many more tens of thousands in the months and years that followed through their injuries and radiation poisoning. So, whilst this is an area which people flock


to see, it is an entirely different experience. I can only say that shivers overtook me as I entered the park, heightened further by my visit to the Peace Memorial Museum. As I left and wandered past the Cenotaph, the Flame of Peace, the Children’s Peace Monument and the Peace Bell a feeling of true sadness overtook me. Then across the river you see the Atomic Bomb Dome still standing despite being virtually at the epicentre of the explosion – my only thoughts being – how when everything else was flattened? I can only say that the Park creates a journey of emotions but I left reflecting on the word Peace – clearly the intended purpose! From the same area I was able to catch a fast ferry to the island of Miyajima about 35 minutes away and home to ‘the Floating Torii’. The 16m orange (officially described a ‘vermillion’) Shrine Gate has existed since to 12th century with the current one erected in the late 19th century. It sits on a beach about 15 mins stroll from the ferry, along which, you will encounter very tame wild deer seeking tit-bits. When the tide is out you can walk up to it and when the tide is in it appears to float on the water. This is the gate to Itsukushima-jinja – a Shrine which has existed as far back as the 6th century when the island was considered sacred and off limits to commoners. For those who like hiking, the island has long trails through primeval forests which take you to the top of Misen Mountain (530m), where can experience 360- degree views. For those who are less energetic there is also a cable-car (ropeway as the locals describe it). Hiroshima is what I would describe as a relaxed city, easy to


Fukuoka and Hakata sit across a river and merged in 1889 to become Fukuoka but it still gets referred to as both names – even the main train station is called Hakata. It is Japan’s eighth largest population centre and forth largest airport. I decided to base myself here to visit both this city and then travel down to Nagasaki for the day using my JR Rail Pass. It is also the airport where I will fly from up to Hokkaido – Japan’s North Island. Being a large city, it has varying districts. I am staying 1 stop away from downtown – 2 nights at the APA hotel are costing me £40 a night including breakfast! Again, it is a good hotel with everything you could need for 2 days in a city.


The Downtown area is very relaxed with good shopping and eateries, again easily walkable but also with a great subway network if needed. The Tenjin district close by via the subway housing more of the department stores, boutiques and the main nightlife area. It was here that I discovered Kura Sushi


– the largest chain of Sushi restaurants in Japan….and what fun I had! It is a self-serve restaurant. Check yourself in and get a table number. At the table you find everything you need from Chopsticks to cups,wasabi etc. A tablet at your table allows you to scan the menu and order items directly. There are two conveyor belts. The top one delivers what you order – stopping at your table and the bottom once has random dishes that you can simply pick off. Both food and drinks are delivered in this way. As you finish each plate you simply slide into a slot, and it is taken away. But the real brilliance is that after every five plates you get a game of chance via amine cartoons on the tablet in front of you – the prize is a children’s toy in a ball! Do not let that fool you! I was hooked and determined to win.! I got as far as 10 plates and 2 defeats before I had to give up. I checked out on the screen, took my original table number chitty to the till, scanned it and paid – £15 including two beers and a lot of fun. Nagasaki


The Shinkansen does not run through Fukuoka directly to Nagasaki. You get an express train as far as Takeo Onsen and then join up with the newest Shinkansen line to Nagasaki. All in it takes about 90 minutes so easy to do a day trip.


Your mind wanders to think about how can


this really have happened? To the eye today, Nagasaki is a sprawling successful metropolis of a city with a thriving port. It is only when you visit the museum, see the visuals, and exhibits that the reality of the devastation, terror and suffering experienced comes to life.


I had not realised that the bomb dropped


was twice the size of the first one, and that Nagasaki was the secondary target. Kokura where the Japan had a huge arsenal was the primary target, but a cruel twist of fate was dealt when cloud cover forced the crew to divert, as the bomb had to be aimed visually. The bomb missed the main target in the port and landed in the densely populated Urakami valley. Though, the mountainous topography helped in containing the blast devastation to about two square miles, the blast still killed 40,000 people instantly and again many more thousands in the months and years to follow. Wandering further down the hill you are met with an eerie similarity to Hiroshima. There, the ‘Dome’ survived the blast despite being close to the epicentre. In Nagasaki, the corner of the Urakami Catholic Cathedral stands in testament, again close to the epicentre. To get a better view of Nagasaki itself I


caught the tram and walked a little to Mt Inasa Ropeway. Mt Inasa rises 333m above sea level giving spectacular 360-degree views over Nagasaki and beyond. In fact, it was selected as one of the top three night views in the world in 2012 – I guess that list is constantly changing these days! I was not going to be there at night but on a glorious sunny day I was determined to visit this - despite my fear of heights. I admit that I was a bit shaky on the way up and on the walkway at the back of the mountain which seemed to my nervous disposition to have shear drops (it probably didn’t!). Once at the observatory though – Wow ! Spectacular! Not to be missed! My parting memory from Nagasaki will be the view out over the thriving city and in particular, over the area of the Peace Park, clearly visible amid the vast new urban landscape. The city has regenerated but at its heart is an area in memorial that exists to encourage all to wish for peace. Leaving the South Island of Kyushu, I


flew up to Sapporo in Hokkaido – The North Island where weather fronts from Siberia bring cooler weather and some of the best skiing in the world in the winter months. My destination is Sapporo, home to the 1972


Nagasaki is set in the valleys of the rolling


hills and mountains which surround it and the port. A tram network provides excellent access throughout the various districts. Like Hiroshima I decided to start with the


Peace Park which is a dedicated memorial to those killed as a result of the dropping of the second atomic bomb, only three days after that in Hiroshima. I took the tram uphill to the highest point of the park. There you are met by a huge Peace Statue and then as you wander downhill, the Fountain of Peace, Nagasaki Bell and various monuments donated by countries and communities around the world. Again, this is a hugely thought-provoking area. In fact, the area is described as a “wishes zone” and was developed as “a space suitable for a place to wish for peace”.


GO EAST: JAPAN PART 2 | 25


Winter Olympics and my favourite beer! It is Autumn but the temperature drop from southern Japan is instantly noticeable. A short connection from the airport by express train / subway and I arrived at the nicest and funkiest hotels of my travels in Japan – The Unwind Hotel. This is a hotel which aims to be a relaxing ski cabin in the city – wood stove in reception, massive bed with winter throws in the room, all topped off with an open fire and blankets on the roof terrace, situated beside a trendy bar with free wine nightly. Who knew soup was a thing for breakfast – each morning a thermos of freshly prepared varieties accompanied by warm baked bread. All this for £57 a night. Loved it!


The next morning, I made the pilgrimage to the Sapporo Beer Museum across the city. The museum takes you through the history of Sapporo beer and its marketing evolution. It was not long before I was in the tasting- room soaking up the atmosphere and the liquid gold. Having made the trip, I decided to have lunch in the connected ‘Biergarten Halls’– the on-table hotplate allowing you to cook all the thinly sliced Lamb, Pork, Chicken and vegetables you can eat in an hour, all accompanied by the Sapporo secret sauce as much beer as you can also drink – quite a bargain for about £25! Delicious and a great experience into the bargain. I spent the afternoon shopping in the various markets and stores, seeking out my souvenirs/gifts for my return home. I had hoped to visit Mount Moiwa, the home to the Olympics, to take in the views over the city but unfortunately the weather closed in badly with low cloud and rain, so I did not get the chance. I will save that for the next time when I come back to ski both here and in the other famous ski resorts dotted across the island where the powder is famed. Instead, I spent a leisurely day working my way between the underground shopping areas and the city’s malls,


taking in


coffees and some great food. Sapporo, like everywhere else I visited, is a large city which is easily navigated through the excellent public transport systems.


Friday came quickly and I checked out before making my way to the airport for my flight to Tokyo Haneda in readiness for my early flight home the next morning. What struck me again was the scale of Japan with flights between the two cities running hourly at peak and planes capable of holding 350 passengers operating the route – there was not a seat to be had on my flight! I stayed at the Royal Park Hotel, connected to the terminal. The terminal offering before Departures in terms of shopping and eating was phenomenal – much different than anything I had seen elsewhere in the world. After Security, the choice is somewhat limited to duty free and luxury brands. It was not long before we were wheels up and I was saying ‘Sayonara’ to Japan. My language skills are limited … I wish I knew the Japanese term for ‘Au Revoir’ – until the next time… I am hooked and will definitely be back to experience more of the beauty of this country, the people, and their culture.


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