DESTINATIONS THE US | RAIL HOLIDAYS
right track j
Tamara Hinson hops on the California Zephyr train to test out the scenic route from San Francisco to Chicago
ust hours after boarding the sleek, silver bullet that is Amtrak’s California Zephyr in Emeryville station, just outside San Francisco, I’ve crossed the Sacramento Valley’s
farmlands and hit the snow-dusted Sierra Nevada. There’s something wonderful about seeing snow flurries swirling outside, from a sleeper car’s cosy confines. And railway fan Joe Biden, who’s clocked up 7,000 round trips on Amtrak, might agree. Biden recently pledged to invest $66 billion in
America’s rail infrastructure. And as growing numbers of travellers look for more sustainable modes of transport than flying, I wanted to see for myself if trains could be a better option, for international visitors on multi-destination trips. Cosy is definitely the operative word when describing the cheapest sleeper accommodation I’m in for the two-night, three-day journey to Chicago. It’s a 3ft 6in x 6ft 6in two-person roomette, (there’s an additional bedroom category for those needing more space). It’s big enough to allow me to keep my cabin bag with me without it becoming an obstacle, although if my partner was with me, I’d have relegated his bag (if not him) to the communal luggage rack. The two armchair-like seats flatten to create a single bed, while a second folds down from the ceiling. Various nooks and crannies accommodate items such as water bottles, slotted with jigsaw-
like efficiency alongside essentials such as an air conditioning dial and two-pin socket. My Superliner train has two levels of accommodation, unlike the East Coast’s single-level Viewliners. Don’t panic if you’re on the ground floor – the views are still fantastic, and for a change of scenery, there are observation and dining cars on the upper level too. I’d recommend stocking up on supplies (especially
fresh fruit) before boarding – the small, cash-only shop at Emeryville station is hardly Whole Foods, and neither is the onboard shop, although the impressive alcohol section helps soothe concerns about skipping my five-a-day. Luckily, for sleeper passengers, three daily meals are included. And these were an unexpected highlight: at breakfast, there are delicious omelettes and muesli, while lunchtime offerings include Angus beef burgers and vegan chilli. For dinner – three-courses with an alcoholic drink – options include crab cakes, flatiron steaks and chocolate tortes. Suddenly, the choice on the South West Trains food trolley seems rather plain. My top tip? Book dining times for lunch and dinner as soon as the restaurant manager announces, over the tannoy, that you can do so. Passengers can also eat in their accommodation, which I do once, when I forget to reserve and I’m asked to share a table with a stranger (and feel horribly guilty when I notice his offended look as I scarper back to my roomette).
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travelweekly.co.uk 17 MARCH 2022 39
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