promise
The lesser-known side of Halkidiki offers a welcoming window into Greek culture, finds Alice Barnes-Brown
DESTINATIONS HALKIDIKI | GREECE & CYPRUS
t ”
his is Greece as I’ve never experienced before,” I remarked to a companion as we
danced in a circle around the village square in Palaiochori, eastern Halkidiki, accompanied by a chorus of clarinets and cicadas. I have been a lover of Greece since I was 10 years old, but folk dancing at village fairs has never been my strong suit. As I whirled, blurs of primary
colour reeled across my vision: each house had hung a colourful handwoven rug from the window, showcasing one of this region’s traditional crafts. For repeat visitors looking to make a deep connection with Greek culture without meeting many other tourists, this is the place to be. Halkidiki is split into three peninsulas. Most British tourists stick to the westernmost, Kassandra, known for its family- friendly resorts such as Sani and Ikos; while the beach-filled middle one, Sithonia, attracts mainly Bulgarian, Serbian and
Romanian road-trippers. The eastern peninsula is mostly occupied by Mount Athos, a monastic centre where outsiders are largely forbidden. But the remainder of the Athos region, where I danced the night away, rewards travellers with ancient sites, fabulous food and a rare glimpse into rural Greek life.
A QUIET PLACE The 90-minute taxi transfer from Thessaloniki airport to eastern Halkidiki gave me ample chance to practise my Greek with the driver. Looking out at springtime blooms of poppies and gorse, he said: “For me, there are too many cars and people in Kassandra. I like it here – it’s quieter.” With a distinct lack of traffic,
we reached the Eagles Palace resort in good time. As I walked to my room, the only sound was of chittering swallows. Palm trees lightly brushed my balcony and lined the paths towards the glassy Aegean Sea, adding to the zen-like feel of the resort. ²
travelweekly.co.uk
10 APRIL 2025
35
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