oJapan
DESTINATIONS JAPAN | ASIA
g
ood morning,” an upbeat voice chirps over the loudspeaker, awakening me from the sluggishness of a long-haul flight. “This is
your captain speaking. We’ll shortly be making our descent into Tokyo Haneda, where the local time is 6am. For those of you sitting on the left, we should be seeing a very nice view of Mount Fuji shortly.” I peer out of the window and Fuji’s unmistakable snow-dusted summit, cast in shades of pinks and purples by the breaking dawn, comes into view. It’s breathtaking, even from this distance – and emotional too, considering how long this majestic view has been off limits due to border closures. But Fuji and the other big hitters aren’t my target. Instead, I’m venturing west to two lesser-known regions of Japan.
GIFU PREFECTURE My first stop is Gifu, just over two hours from Tokyo on the Shinkansen bullet train. Dominated by high mountains and river plains at the base of steep
valleys, this landlocked prefecture is a literal breath of fresh air compared to Japan’s populous cities – and you can be as active or relaxed as you like. The 8km Magome Pass, through forests and past
waterfalls, is particularly popular with hikers. It’s a segment of the Nakasendo trail, which connects two Edo-era (1603 to 1867) post towns, Magome and Tsumago. While in Hida – a city with the same charming traditional wooden houses as better-known Takayama – you can cycle along bucolic country lanes and learn about the production of its prized wagyu beef, before sipping tea made from fresh spring water. Admittedly, the highlight for me is much more sedate – sampling sake in Iwamura, soaking in Gero’s healing onsen (hot spring) baths, then enjoying a kaiseki dinner, a sumptuous meal featuring multiple courses of small plates. Perhaps it’s the jetlag but I can’t remember the last time I slept so well. Japanese traditions and crafts are also alive and thriving in Gifu’s immutable towns and villages. In
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