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DESTINATIONS LAKE COMO ITALY & FRANCE


Nearby: For a proper hike, the 30-mile Sentiero del Viandante trail passes through the village on its way around the lake’s eastern shore from Abbadia Lariano to Colico – the southern section is a good day’s walk. Farther afield, Varenna lies on the mainline to Milan Centrale. The cheapest tickets to Milan cost €7 for the one-hour journey, and taking the train avoids machinations surrounding city-centre parking. Stay: Villa Cipressi is a small three- star hotel in a delightful 14th to 18th-century building overlooking the lake. It’s more gracious than glitzy – there’s no air-con – but its gardens are a Varenna highlight. Double rooms from €240. hotelvillacipressi.it


w MENAGGIO See: Historically an important trading centre at one end of the Menaggina Valley, Menaggio lies on the western shore of the central lake area and is one of Como’s busiest villages. There’s more than just tourism


here – something to consider in the off-season when some of the villages, hotels and restaurants enter a state of semi-hibernation. As such, some visitors describe a diminished sense of romance. That said, all things are relative – this is Italy.


To see what €90m could buy, take a look at George and Amal Clooney’s Villa Oleandra


LEFT: Menaggio


Up from the harbour, cafes on Piazza Garibaldi offer a relaxed perspective on the frenetic comings and goings of locals and tourists alike. Cobbled streets and shady, narrow alleys lead up into the medieval town. Along Via Annetta e Celestino


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l fondoambiente.it l funicolarecomo.it l giardini divillamelzi.it l hotelvilla cipressi.it


Lusardi, look out for the bell tower of Chiesa San Stefano. Inside are frescoes by local artist Tagliaferri, as well as important paintings by the Lombard School. Continuing farther, at the top of the village the ruins of a substantial 10th-century castle and vestiges of the town’s perimeter walls provide clues to Menaggio’s strategic importance, an attribute that endured to the Second World War. Nearby: Menaggio’s position lends itself to forays into Switzerland. Buses take less than an hour to the lakeside town of Lugano and cost just €2. The Swiss Alpine resort of St Moritz combines with the scenic Bernina Express train journey in another popular excursion. Stay: The four-star Grand Hotel Menaggio has its toes in the lake


66 travelweekly.co.uk 5 July 2018


and sits right next to the ferry jetty, so is ideal for excursions. Not competing with state-of- the-art five-star properties, the hotel’s charm lies in its classically Italian, relaxed but elegant style. Doubles from €162. grandhotelmenaggio.com


w GRIANTE, CADENABBIA & TREMEZZO See: Also on the central lake, the swathe of hotels between Griante and Tremezzo, along the western shore road, has long been a summer favourite with British visitors. It’s easy to see why. Views across the lake to Bellagio and the mountains of the Grigna massif beyond are sublime. Near Cadenabbia, the 19th-century Anglican Church of the Ascension has an active congregation and underlines the British connection. Nearer Tremezzo, 17th-century


Villa Carlotta is not to be missed. Masterpieces by 18th and 19th-century sculptor Antonio Canova join noteworthy contemporary art exhibitions and extensive garden walks. The area is well served by


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