DESTINATIONS ICELAND | NORDICS
Kristján E Karlsson Iceland guide, Intrepid Travel
E Intrepid Travel uses ABOVE: Vatnajökull glacier typifies the otherworldly nature of Iceland’s landscapes PICTURE: Shutterstock/arthurgphotography
Die Another Day and A View to a Kill, to name just a handful of its credits. Yet it has attracted few fans at the time of our arrival. It feels like a private moment with a member of Hollywood royalty, a figure far more majestic and humble than its flesh-and-blood peers.
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION That night, we dine at the tour’s ‘feature’ accommodation, Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon, in the shadow of the ice-covered Öræfajökull, Iceland’s largest active volcano. Hoping for our first glimpse of the northern lights, we take a 15-minute drive to a quieter viewing spot. Luck is on our side, so we spend a happy hour taking snaps of bright- green bands in the sky. And by the time we return to the hotel, the aurora is visible from there too – I go to bed still fizzing with excitement. The next morning, in anticipation of a long day on the road, I take full advantage of the comforts of the accommodation and head to the hot tubs to indulge my newfound love of outdoor bathing. En route to Reykjavik, via the south coast, we stop at Eldhraun lava field and pick our way over the
travelweekly.co.uk I shelter against
the cavernous cliff- face as cascades of water roar below
moss-covered terrain. Kristján reveals we are walking across the largest lava field in the country, formed by the Laki eruption that lasted for eight months in 1783-84, wreaking havoc on plant, animal and human life in the area. “It will happen again. Iceland is as volcanic now as it was 10,000 years ago – it’s just a slow process,” he says.
My misgivings about the power
of nature have just about worn off by the time we reach Seljalandsfoss, a roaring waterfall. At first, I think I must have misheard Kristján talking about “going behind” the crashing torrent, until we get closer and I spot the drenched clothes of the foolhardy visitors who have taken up this invitation. Curiosity gets the better of me and I find myself sheltering against the cavernous cliff-face as cascades of water roar into the pool below. Soaked, I cannot help but grin.
JAW-DROPPING RESULTS Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the west has dramatic landscapes, which may explain some theories attached to the area. “It’s a place of spirituality,” says Kristján, with some people believing “the layers between the different worlds are thinner here”. He adds: “I met a Belgian medium who had to leave because the energy was so strong.” After driving past craggy mountains and the occasional stream, we head ever upwards until we are at snow level in near- blizzard conditions. Just days earlier, we had been enjoying the surprising warmth of the late-winter weather. That evening, standing outside the door of my lodge at Hotel Snæfellsnes, I hope to bask in the glow of the northern lights again, but see only large grey wisps in the sky – until I get my camera out. The results are jaw-dropping:
shafts of green, purple and violet blaze bright in the clear, starry night. The only sounds are the crunch of my boots in the snow, the clicking of my camera – and perhaps the noise of my head exploding at Iceland’s ability to keep offering up mind- blowing scenes at every turn.
TW
experienced local tour leaders who have extensive knowledge of geology, history and culture. They are also highly skilled
drivers, used to driving in the harsh winter conditions.
E Emphasise the chance of
seeing the northern lights along with many of Iceland’s other amazing natural attractions.
E Premium tours mean
travellers get to experience the wonders of near-Arctic conditions while still having their creature comforts.
E Small groups offer an opportunity to get to know people with diverse interests
who are curious about travelling beyond the typical wish-list places, and who are open to experiencing the unexpected.
BOOK IT
Intrepid Travel’s Premium Iceland in Winter tour starts from £2,729 based on a November 30 departure, with twin-share accommodation, arrival transfer, transport on the tour, daily breakfast and four dinners, activities and tips. Flights not included.
intrepidtravel.com/uk
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