THE BIG INTERVIEW WINE ESTATES


"Every Saturday morning in the centre of the old town, there is the most gorgeous food market full of locals buying their weekly fare rather than tourists"


Friday You won’t really be hungry but the breakfast at La Pyramide is photogenic and completely delicious. There are lots of little quirky homemade bits of this and that, from tiny cakes to mini cheese plates, bread, omelettes and edible flowers. After breakfast, jump in the car and take a slow drive (one hour-ish) down south to Valence in the Drome, perhaps stopping off to take some photos of the iconic vineyards of Condrieu, which produce world famous Viognier-based whites. Carry on down to Valence, a delightful town with authentic, French shopping, stunning views of the gorges and an old town where you can get lost in the rickety, narrow streets looking for pretty little churches, art galleries or a cosy spot for a cool beer. In Valence, there are plenty of charming, low key eateries serving tagine, pizzas, fish… whatever takes your fancy. There are also plenty of decent, basic hotels that over deliver for the price, such as the Hotel de France, where we stayed. This place was central, with its own car park and we could walk


to the old town in five minutes. You’ll probably want to reign it in a little bit during the day because in the evening, you could find yourself at the 3-star restaurant Anne-Sophie Pic at Maison Pic, just down the road. Now, this was an experience. Anne- Sophie Pic’s dishes are so delicate and beautiful, with Japanese influences. This restaurant has been awarded 3 Michelin stars since 1933 and remains a fabulous gastronomical experience that’s best not rushed. You can stay here too in the beautiful hotel rooms if you’re feeling flush.


Saturday Chances are, you will be feeling the need to eat simply today and Valence is the best place to do that. After breakfast, head out for a stroll to take in the sights. Every Saturday morning in the centre of the old town, there is the most gorgeous food market. Full of locals buying their weekly fare rather than tourists, you’ll see the plumpest red strawberries, tomatoes bigger than your head, fresh bread, crazy cheeses, dried fruits, charcuterie


(L) View from La Chapelle


(R) Helena with Patrick Henriroux


(B) Chateau de Beaucastel


and more. This is where you can stock up for a picnic. Check out and take your goodies to the car to drive back up north towards Lyon. On the way, there is an unassuming, pretty little town called Tain, that red wine lovers will get very excited about. When there, look up to the hills full of vines. You might just be able to make out the tiniest of chapels. This teeny building is ‘La Chapelle’ of Hermitage wine fame and the vines surrounding it make some of the best red wines on the planet (look for producers Jaboulet, Chapoutier and Chave). You can drive the zig zag routes through the vines to get relatively close to La Chapelle for your picnic. From here, you can see the whole of the Rhone Valley with vines and the river in the foreground. There is no better place to feast on the simple delights you brought up with you from Valence. Make your way slowly back and hop into the car to head back up to your hotel in Lyon. An evening stroll pre-dinner through Lyon’s old town is an absolute must before a typically French bistrot meal such as Daniel et Denise at the top end or the simpler Café Comptoir Abel.


Sunday Lyon is a great place to explore briefly or all day. If you have some time before your flight, the Roman Theatre of Fourviére is an interesting stop as is the famous 17th century Musée Des Beaux-Arts, but even just walking around is an absolute delight. The Rhône Valley is the wine and


food tourism road less travelled and it’s so easy to do. I’m going back for more in the Autumn and suggest you do the same.


Helena Nicklin is an award-winning drinks writer and presenter of The Three Drinkers TV show on Amazon Prime. Tweet her @thewinebird or @the3drinkers of find her on instagram @winebird @thethreedrinkers


SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE 39


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