RICHARD JAMES


world - a rich seam of the uniquely precious knowledge and skill running


through the mediocrity of fashion. But James would be the first to both celebrate its over 200 year past and court the contemporary - with taste. He recalls one incident. "Sir Hardy Amies was marvellous," he says. "I well recall his chauffeur-driven car pulling up outside Richard James and Sir Hardy emerging like Lady Bracknell. He'd cast a lugubrious eye over the bright pink and acid green jackets in our window before shaking his head at us in mock disbelief. And then he smiled." As I know only too well, having interviewed Sir Hardy and enjoyed his company, the mischief is evident. This was typical Amies - with pomp and circumstance and a little show of cheeky disapproval from the man who set up his establishment in 1946, was Dressmaker to Her Majesty the Queen and had seen little change in the Row. But that mock disbelief and the eventual smile seem to carry with them some affection and regard for what a younger James was doing. Deep, vibrant, jewel colours have always been part of


Richard James takes his role as a creator on the Row seriously and feels that he has more than a responsibility to do so


James' sartorial autobiography. In fact, three Richard James pieces, greatly loved and sadly loved by moths too, used to hang in my wardrobe - a royal purple cashmere jogging suit, a duck egg blue blazer with mother of pearl buttons and a two-piece suit in subtle candy coloured stripes. Moths are famous for choosing the best. But there is more than a place for a classic navy blue suit - Richard James style. I was once consulted where to find such a suit for a special occasion and I immediately said James' establishment. I accompanied the gentleman, the cloth was chosen, the


form measured, the deal done and all in the space of what seemed minutes - though not rushed - with expert hands and eyes constantly vigilant. Then he took me for an overly extravagant lunch to celebrate. Richard James takes his role as a creator on the Row seriously and feels that he has more than a responsibility to do so. He was a founding member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association and ever with an eye not to revolutionize the street but maximise its allure and charm, pioneered Saturday opening times. Perhaps one might imagine the sound of tailor's shears crashing to the wooden floors in horror, initially. It is also Richard James' pioneering


spirit which has seen some unusual elements of the business such as controversial advertisements, one was banned, depicting a sartorially perfect gentleman throwing himself off the top of a building, perhaps inspired by artist Yves Klein's performance leap, 'Into the Void', the sharp camouflage suit - a uniform in its own right and the 'Naked Suit' in collaboration with mass nudity photographer, Spencer


Tunick. The cheeky boy in James has always found outlets. There is seriousness, irony and humour in much of his work - larger than average window pane checks, outsize dot motifs and again those electric, fizzy sherbet hues.


And James certainly has been


recognised for his talent and business acumen. In 1996, he was awarded the Evening Standard's Eros Award as Retailer of the Year. He was Menswear Designer of the Year, awarded by the British Fashion Council in 2001. He won the Best Advertising Campaign for Autumn/Winter 2007. In 2018, he received an


OBE. Real estate developer and film producer, Charles S. Cohen


took a majority stake in Richard James in 2017 and assumed the role of chairman. Last year, Richard James opened on Park Avenue, New York. James and I decide to take a stroll down


Savile Row and he reminisces about the people he had known and knows and the changes which have come about. It is all too evident that he loves his home turf. Appropriately, we come to a stop at what used to be the House of Hardy Amies - a beautiful building which would make a stupendous town house. We both talk about the unrivalled salon shows held there - all gilt and mirrors - 'Just like my bedroom!' he laughs. There seems to be a twinkle in his eye, as he looks at the old building again.


SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE 31


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