Technical
Nigel Church is a Product Trainer with Cutting Edge Training, an operating division of Ransomes Jacobsen. A well- known and highly respected figure within the industry for over 40 years, he began his career as an apprentice at Ransomes, Sims and Jefferies in 1970 and has worked in the UK and Europe. In this article, he looks at maintaining cut quality between regrinds
I
n the last article, we looked at “how to extend the life of machinery, by adopting correct maintenance procedures”. This month, we will be taking a look at how you can maintain a good quality of cut between
regrinds on your cutting units. Hopefully, your machinery is in peak
condition at the start of each season. It is either a new machine, or a machine that has been fully serviced; as a part of that process, the cutting cylinders will have been spun ground to ensure they have been returned to a true cylinder, and the bottom blades will have been reground or replaced with a new set. It is what you do now that will affect the
performance of your cutting units until the next regrind.
The Environment
Cylinder mowers work in a wide variety of environments, and this of course has a considerable effect upon the condition of the unit.
Commercial Mowers
Some heavy-duty mowers, like the popular Ransomes Highway and Parkway models, are designed to work on roadside verges and housing estates. These 8” and 10” diameter cutting units are a much heavier construction than the finer turf machines and can take a considerable number of hard knocks before being damaged. However, it is vital that the operator takes the time to clear the area of litter before cutting, and notes any large debris items before running the cutting unit. It is also much easier to pick up litter when it is in one piece, instead of hundreds of bits after passing through a Magna cylinder unit! As well as avoiding the worst of the debris on
the work site, the way that the cutting cylinder is adjusted is crucial to the number of hours the blades will last before they need to be replaced. The cylinder should be free turning, without drag from the bottom blade. If it is not, then precious hydraulic cutting power is being lost in forcing the cylinder to turn, and therefore there is less power left to cut grass with. In heavy growth conditions, very light contact is OK, as the lush grass will offer sufficient lubricant to keep the cylinder running without overheating. When the growth rate drops off, and the grass dries out, then the cylinder should run with a
Nigel Church
slight air gap between the cylinder and the bottom blade. This prevents friction and heat build-up, which will take the temper, or the hardness, out of the bottom blade and leave soft spots. Any blades which are damaged in this way will wear very quickly, and will need to be replaced frequently. How do you set it with a slight air gap? Well, use a piece of paper like a feeler gauge to accurately set the gap. Office copier paper is rolled to a very accurate thickness (to avoid jamming when it’s used in a printer or photocopier), so it’s a uniform 3 to 4 thou” (0.1mm) which just happens to be the average thickness of annual meadow grass, so it’s ideal for the job! You can also use the setting papers available from your manufacturer, as pictured. This sounds like a real fiddle but, if practised regularly, setting the cylinder correctly soon becomes second nature. The difference in the cutting quality is very noticeable, as is the increase in blade life, so it’s really worth getting it right at the start of the season.
Bottom Blades
So, how long should a bottom blade last? Well, if correctly adjusted, a genuine bottom blade should last 300+ hours, or you should use two sets of bottom blades per season (on average). If set too tightly, then six sets of blades per season is not unheard of, but it is very poor practice, not to mention expensive!
The Cylinder
Of course, if you are wearing out several sets of bottom blades per season, the cylinder will also be seeing excessive wear, and they are much more expensive to replace than bottom blades. A 6k Magna cylinder should last two full seasons. If you screw the blades down tight, then you will have to replace the cylinders every year as well!
Get those blades up!
Every turn of the height of cut adjuster will raise the bottom blade off of the ground slightly more. The higher the blades are, the less they will contact the ground (scalping), and the less debris will travel between the bottom blade and the cylinder. Unless it is a sports playing surface, it does not need a close cut. There is a common misconception that
shaving the grass will mean that there is less on PC JUNE/JULY 2017 I 131
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