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ermen’s market. Peo- ple would say, ‘Oh, a farmers’ market.’ No! ‘Okay, a fish market.’ No!” insists Halmay, who takes a few minutes away from returning a constant procession of greetings from friends to explain. “A farmers’ market isn’t called a pro- duce market — I mean, you sell produce there, but supposedly you’re buying from the guy that grew it. The guys here, they come in, tie up their boats, and you’re buying directly from the people that caught it. “So we tried to set
it up, and it turns out there’s no such market in the law. And if the word doesn’t exist in law, the concept doesn’t exist. That meant we had to get a law passed codifying what it is we’re doing out here.”
Tuna Harbor pier Enter county super-
visor Greg Cox, who helped form a work- ing group that involved Halmay, other market vendors, government agencies, and California Assembly speaker Toni Atkins. Using Tuna Har- bor as a testing grounds for their ideas, the group crafted legislation that resulted in Atkins’s intro-
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duction of Assembly Bill 226, the “Pacific to Plate” law, which took effect statewide on January 1. “Up to this point
regulators had kind of lumped fish markets in with the regulations governing farmers’ mar- kets. It’s kind of hard to do that, for a number of reasons,” Cox told a group assembled in early December to celebrate the passage of AB 226. “We’re all familiar with places like the fish mar- kets in San Francisco, Pike Place Market in Seattle — the differ- ence is that they’re tied into a restaurant, which we don’t always have in these situations.” The restaurant, and
its sanitary facilities, proved to be the key component in allowing the other venues to exist. Under AB 226, fisher- men’s markets are des- ignated as food facilities. This allows fresh fish to be cleaned onsite and clarifies in state law that products like whole fresh fish are allowed to be sold in an open-air storefront. The other major accomplishment of the law allows mul- tiple vendors to organize under a single permit in the same way farmers’ markets are set up. “A lot of people
won’t buy a whole fish because they don’t know
what to do with it,” Hal- may says. “So we had to add the cutting booth a few months after we opened, realizing we could double our busi- ness with fish ready to cook. That’s the beauty of this — we learned the whole thing as we went. And they ended up wording the law so that it fit what we’d need. Now we’ve got a ‘how to’ list to let anyone else start this.” There’s already talk
of other markets up and down the coast, Halmay says. Serious interest is forming outside the county, and there are rumblings of other mar- kets starting in Mission Bay and possibly Oceans- ide. Given its fledgling state, I wonder if these worry Halmay and other Tuna Harbor suppliers. “I wouldn’t worry
about it, as long as it’s not on the same day,” he responds. “Remember, we’ve got about 70 farm- ers’ markets in town... who would have thought that you’d have had that demand?” Halmay responds. “We fisher- men like the possessive pronoun — ‘That’s my spot, my fish,’ whatever. But that’s not necessary, we’ve got three million people in this market and we might very well be happy to take some of our catch over there, let them bring some of
32 San Diego Reader January 7, 2016
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