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North American labruscas to European vinifera grapes, determined to create a premium wine industry here. Today there are more than 9,000


acres in production. In the end, it turned out that the FTA was a good thing for the industry, giving it a boot in the rear and forcing it to re-invent itself, Heiss believes.


“This valley became a wine region,”he concludes.


Calona Vineyards’ winemaker Howard Soon also sat on many of those early VQA panels, while the fledgling industry groped its way into its new identity.


He recalls heated debates about what varietal flavour and style should mean. The result laid the foundation for today’s industry; standards that have put B.C. wines up against the best in the world and brought home top awards.


However, in those early days, he admits, “A lot of them weren’t very good. There were a lot of technical faults in the wines too. One in three wouldn’t pass our taste test. Today almost all B.C. wines would,” he says. A sensory research technician at the research station in Summerland in those days, Marjorie King, says they had to begin with a discussion about what makes a qualified judge. “We’ve come a long way. Today we


make really fine wines: fruit forward wines with a good balance of acidity. Lots of parts of the world would love to be able to make wines as fine as ours,”she commented. A key to that success was the grape industry’s decision to commit to planting premium vinifera grapes, she believes, and the decision to get rid of the marketing board, so that grapes are not sold by the ton, which encourages over-cropping and a reduction in wine grape quality. The Stewart family was also involved at the beginning, replanting their vineyards to viniferas and then taking the next step and starting up a winery as well, with today’s agriculture minister, Ben Stewart at the helm.


His brother Tony holds the reins today, and served as chairman of the B.C. Wine Institute from 2000 to 2004.


052-ANOTHER CLASSIC2_4-75x5blk_VN 10/26/10 10:57 AM Page 1 “They had to reflect the region they


He recalls, “We all shared a vision of wines that were more than just technically okay.


Howard Soon recalls heated debates on the early Vintners Quality Alliance panels.


were grown in.”


Although at first the major wineries didn’t see it as part of their business plan, the smaller wineries produced wines entirely from B.C. grapes and pushed for the whole industry to follow suit.


“There were some explosive


CERTIFIED LabTesting Above State Requirements


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Winemaker John Simes, left, and founder Anthony Von Mandl of Mission Hill Family Estate, whose Grand Reserve Chardonnay 1992 won the Avery Trophy for ‘Best Chardonnay Worldwide’ at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London, a significant accolade.


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