Top DINING

HINTERLAND (left): Hapuka sea bass.

ROOTS (right): Korean BBQ riblet with kimchi braised pork belly buns, bok choy and red dragon sauce.

Entrées $26.95-$39.95. (21445 W. Gumina Rd., Pewaukee, 262-781-7995)

HINTERLAND ERIE STREET GASTROPUB

T e connotation of the word “hinterland” as a remote, somewhat undeveloped patch of ground is a contrast to the ambitious cuisine at this ultra urban venue. Ten years ago, Bill and Michelle Tressler put an unexpected entrée spin on the menu at their Hinterland in Green Bay. Imag- ine pork cheeks, quail and sweetbreads going over well in Green Bay. Certainly it can work here, too. It does. And think of the stark, coldly beautiful landscape of a hinterland – branches, animal skins, stone, fl at color. T e lined face of an aged Georgia O’Keeff e – the interior is that. In the vein of outposts, the menu unfolds in mysterious, seductive bites, courtesy of well-traveled executive chef Dan Van Rite, who joined this location two years ago. Andouille-crusted halibut with red-hot butter sauce is his signature, but I adore the Navarino elk tenderloin with

soldier beans, cherry chutney and spinach emulsion. Entrées $24-$42. (222 E. Erie

St., 414-727-9300)

LAKE PARK BISTRO

Is the restaurant industry on the rebound from the Great Recession? I sure hope so. I will say that every time I went to Lake Park Bistro – for an off -duty meal at the bar with friends – the current of people in the dining rooms made me forget about the unemployment rate. Owner Joe Bartolotta called the 7 percent drop in company sales in 2009 a mere “Disney- land as it relates to our industry.” A host of reasons contribute to Bartolotta’s suc- cess, including the owner’s savvy business sense. I think of the East Side French territoire like a good escapist movie. T e elegant French country interior com- bined with white bistro plates – stringing together coquilles St. Jacques, foie gras on brioche French toast, sole Meunière, and crème brûlée – is the soothing antidote for life’s malaise. Entrées $22-$49. (3133

E. Newberry Blvd., 414-962-6300)

52 | Milwaukee Magazine | May 2010 » milwaukeemagazine.com

EDDIE MARTINI’S

Where were you when the calendar read 1995? Perhaps letting your carnivorous self loose at what was then the start of a Milwaukee trend – the 1940s-style steakhouse? With server virtuosos in crisp white jackets and a retro-fl avored décor, Eddie’s led the way. T e location near the Milwaukee Regional Medi- cal Center made this one of the most- sought-after reservations in town. T e beefy trend has lasted a lot longer than I thought it would, but when the economy took a hard hit, so did “the steakhouse” – only not this steakhouse. Yes, the servers still treat you like you’re that tuxedoed, martini musketeer Sammy Davis Jr. rein- carnated, and the menu is solid. T ere are few more relishing sights than the lobster bisque, a New York strip with green bean casserole and garlic mashed, and a bite or two of your companion’s lobster T ermidor. T is remains the DeRosa Corp.’s pride and joy. Entrées $22-$46.

(8612 Watertown Plank Rd., Wauwatosa, 414-771-6680)

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