Top DINING

Coquette’s special charm is their goal – the staff and menu (bacon-wrapped meatloaf to coq au vin) are the same. But tweaks, including added weekend hours, are in the works. Entrées $15.95-$21.95. (316 N.

Milwaukee St., 414-291-2655)

BOSLEY ON BRADY

T e fi fth year is perhaps the charm for co-owner Michele (Bosley) Green, who fashioned her restaurant after the place where she spends much of her off time – Key West. T e restaurant colors, artwork and menu refl ect that. In the fi rst months of 2010, Green says she’s seen a substantial increase in business. Her smashing happy hour may have something to do with it.

T e appetizers (like tempura green beans, crab cakes and blackened tuna) run half- price weekdays, 4-6 p.m. On the regular menu, you can’t go wrong with Bosley seafood – try the seafood symphony or U-10 sea scallops with Gorgonzola risotto. End with a slice of Key lime pie. Entrées

$18-$36. (815 E. Brady St., 414-727-7975)

ZARLETTI

My dining companion wrinkles her nose at my rabbit ragu. It’s not the fi rst time I’ve seen that reaction when rabbit’s been on my plate. But the spellbindingly subtle sauce works so well with delicate fl utes of garganelli pasta. I’m continually intrigued by Zarletti, which follows the Italian heart

of its owner, Brian Zarletti. He splits his time between the namesake business and his T ird Ward Rustico Pizzeria. At the corner of Milwaukee and Mason, he’s of- ten seating patrons (at night) or tweaking sauces (at noon). Zarletti’s standards are high. Testaments to that: pollo saltimbocca, Strauss veal osso buco with risotto Mila- nese, pistachio-crusted grouper with Door County cherry beurre blanc, and panna cotta in a pool of berry sauce. Entrées

$11.95-$34.95. (741 N. Milwaukee St., 414-225-0000)

MERITAGE

T is year, one of chef Jan Kelly’s new apps is the “French sandwich.” What in the

NEW NEIGHBORS

The economic landscape may have been bleak in the last 18 months. But by golly, restaurants still opened. The ones I’m glad to see:

HONEYPIE

It’s lodgy, hipsterish and homey. I sat at the bar next to a woman polishing off a vanilla cupcake. Her husband had the pistachio cream pie. There’s no harm in eating comfort food. This Bay Viewer from the owners of Comet Café makes pork fries with bacon and cheese sauce seem like something endorsed by Dr. Oz. There’s good eating and vibing here. My love song is the Davenport open-faced sandwich (a little like Thanksgiving on rye bread) and a slice of cherry pie.

$7-$12. (2643 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 414-489-7437)

HONEYPIE

In a comfort food corridor on South KK.

CENTRO CAFÉ

After rehabbing the old storefront they’ve had for seven years, own- ers Peg Karpfi nger and Patrick Moore opened this tiny, Euro-vibe Italian place in summer 2009. The couple pays homage to Riverwest with their name, which corresponds to Center Street and the notion of a town “center.” And there is a heart here. The tiny dining room doubles as the kitchen. From anywhere in the room – seated on an old church pew or at the counter topped with a repurposed slab of marble – diners can watch, smell, feel the heat from a pan of linguine with pesto-cream sauce. The energy is happily far north of the streets with valet parking. And the menu is just complicated enough – bruschetta, calamari with lots of lemon and oil, and pastas typical (fettuccini Alfredo) and left-of- center. In centro speak, that’s gluten-free pasta with vegan

“neatballs.” $7-$12. (808 E. Cen- ter St., 414-455-3751)

THE NATIONAL

In previous lives both a café and sub shop, The National was created by like-minded locals who support sustainable food. Braise RSA and Growing Power supply ingredients. A couple shelves of handmade arts and crafts further

50 | Milwaukee Magazine | May 2010 » milwaukeemagazine.com

suggest the café’s progressive mindset. When the weather turns clement, The National will start up its dinner specials again. For now, content yourself with the build-your-own grilled cheese, Asian tuna sandwich, the wowza homemade soups and veggie chili, and baked goods, including incredible cookies from Amaranth

Bakery. $4-$10. (839 W. National Ave., 414-431-6551)

THE RED ACCORDION

With the new Aloft Hotel nearby and a high-rise in the works next door, Russ Davis chose a new concept – tapas – for his old Café Vecchio. Davis also rekindled the interior. Before, all attention was paid to the front of the space, a velvet-textured wine bar. Davis covered the front room in dark wood and a little Erin-Go-Bragh for the new decade. The old private room is now a cheery pan- eled dining room with fl ickering fi replace. My take? Perfect timing for a change, and the quality and prices are right on. My faves from winter: the sliders in all stripes, mini baked meatloaf with corn- bread “hat,” and braised short ribs. Tapas $5-$9. (1137 N. Old

World Third St., 414-273-5700)

GINGER

In late 2008, Julia LaLoggia resuscitated the old Fifth Ward home of Barossa. Instead of fi ne- dining courses, the spread is nib- bly tapas – tater tots and sliders to rosemary pepper lamb chops.

The setting is cocktail-shaker retro, but the crowd is diverse. Go for the $3 tapas happy hour (Tues-Fri 5-7 p.m.). The food rang- es from so-so (tofu and green bean red curry) to good (4-ounce tenderloin with Gorgonzola sherry sauce). Entrées $4-$16. (235 S.

Second St., 414-220-9420)

COA

Last summer, restaurateur Marc Bianchini opened this Mexican “street food” hacienda in the big old bones of the chain steak- house Cameron’s. Yeah, Bian- chini of fi ne-dining (Osteria) fame. It’s a risk, given the mall location, size of the venue (7,000 square feet), and not-quite-cheap food. For frugal folks, it may not be cheap (or Americanized) enough. Some bueno items here – tacos, soups, daily specials and others.

$3-$14. (Bayshore Town Center, 5750 N. Port Washington Rd., Glendale, 414-967-1451)

WARD’S HOUSE

OF PRIME

Brian Ward, once a general manager at Mo’s steakhouse, opened his own steakhouse-plus in the former Yanni’s. His claim to Downtown fame is prime rib, but the broad menu has everything from lamb chops to lobster tail. His chef is also a Mo’s alum and shows his expertise with the New York strip and that bleed- ing beauty, prime rib. Entrées

$14.95-$49.95. (540 E. Mason St., 414-223-0135) ■

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