TopDINING

❙ continued from page 53

$4-$9 tapas menu takes over. Te Turs- day-night special: three courses for $30. Whether you’re going light or full-on $36 bison rib-eye, with rice pilaf and side salad, Peschong is the man you want to make it happen. Entrées $18-$42. (11120 N.

Cedarburg Rd., Mequon, 262-242-6050)

OSTERIA DEL MONDO

Osteria del Mondo’s interior reminds me of the wing of a museum, with arched windows and murals that suggest Roman architecture. Tis elegant Italian is owner Marc Bianchini’s bella firstborn. Over the years, Bianchini and his wife, Marta, have stretched – opening restaurants (Cubanitas, COA) and consulting for places like Kil@wat. At Osteria, he no longer joins the line every night, but the food still bespeaks Bianchini, like the veal saltimbocca with gnocchi and white-wine sauce. Te way the menu works now is carni (meat) and pesci (fish) entrées are $32 across the board. Pastas come in half ($10) and full

($16) portions. Ten there are three- to five-course tasting menus ($25-$45). Tat makes it easy to be eclectic and copious in your ordering, be it beef carpaccio, then spinach tagliatelle with San Marzano veal ragu followed by seared duck breast with potato crisp candied figs or what have you.

(1028 E. Juneau Ave., 414-291-3770)

CAFÉ MANNA

Te belief that a meal needs to incorpo- rate meat for it to be interesting, let alone palatable, is a fallacy. But elegance without traditional protein was rare locally, except for places like Roots Restaurant (and even there, vegetarian or vegan is only one part of the menu). Two years ago, Manna moved into this unobtrusive strip mall space, leaving the animal products on the doormat. Grooved bamboo covers the floor, warm-hued nontoxic paint is brushed on the walls. Back in the small kitchen, it’s all about organic and sustainable ingredi- ents, and cooking in tune with the seasons. Owner Robin Kasch isn’t reluctant to experiment. A year ago, she added raw and

“living food” options, not a common sight in this sausage-racing town. As for ways to inch into this cuisine, there’s the Peace Bowl (pyramid-shaped piles of quinoa and brown rice with veggies and coconut curry sauce), and the vegetable torte, an airy potato custard “pie” with grilled vegetables baked on a pumpkin seed crust. Entrées

$9-$17. (3815 N. Brookfield Rd., Suite 100, Brookfield, 262-790-2340)

SMYTH

Te table where we nibble on rabbit confit over truffle brioche is one down from that of bow-tied local developer Barry Mandel and his bowl of steamed mussels. Smyth (rhymes with “myth”), the fine-dining res- taurant at the boutique Iron Horse Hotel, draws suits and boots to a 100-year-old former warehouse that smacks of Robert Redford’s Sundance catalog and a Clint Eastwood western. Executive chef Tom Schultz (of been-and-gone Holiday House fame) does what he calls “rustic Ameri- cana” cuisine. Tere’s a foie gras du jour (well worth trying), Wisconsin meat and

INSPIRE YOUR TASTE BUDS

SMART PRIVATE DINING

Transform mediocre dinner meetings into inspired events. Entertain clients in one of Milwaukee's premier private dining spaces. From traditional favorites to creative cuisine, impress your guests with chef-prepared selections by our team of culinary experts led by Executive Chefs Mark Weber of Mason Street Grill, David Zakroczymski of Kil@wat and Brian Frakes of Milwaukee ChopHouse.

For details and reservations, call 414-905-1359.

®

®

MarcusRestaurants.com

60 | Milwaukee Magazine | May 2010 » milwaukeemagazine.com Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11