electronics were of no concern to me, as I do not require them, but the brakes are another matter. We inspect the system and find no issue. We remount, and within a mile of riding my front brakes are com- pletely gone. “Without front brakes I’m down to one-
third my stopping power, so I will need to ride at one-third the speed until we find a solution,” I tell Micho. “No problem,” Micho assures me. “There
is a town nearby. They are sure to have mechanics that can help.” We limp into town, Micho taking the lead and calling out potential hazards over the Comm. A motor- cycle shop appears, and we ride in, the employees taking our gear and offering refreshments. Soon there are three mechan- ics surrounding my bike, diagnosing the problem. They bleed and refill the brake lines, which seems to do the trick. In less than an hour we are back on the road. “My electronics are still shot, but the brakes are tip-top,” I tell Micho. We head deeper into town, following cobblestone alleyways to a large wooden door. On cue, the door opens to reveal our hotel parking area. We ride through the threshold and shut down for the day, attendees providing fresh juice and seeing to our gear making us feel like rock stars. Hailey points out a swimming pool and promptly suits up for a swim. I super- vise, taking advantage of repeated offers for beer and snacks. It’s our last evening in Colombia. We are
five days in and are riding a rocky moun- tain path. The rain is unwavering. Gravel gives way to patches of mud and puddles. The GPS shows our altitude at 10,000 feet,
then 11,000 then 12,000. “We are almost there, just a few more miles,” Micho assures us.
“He’s been saying that for
hours,” Hailey mumbles. The sun is dropping fast,
the
remaining light stretching our shadows into long, fuzzy pinnacles. The rainforest gives way to a vast open pla- teau, a small lodge nestled in the mountainside. Below, a nearby metropolis twinkles in fading sunlight. “This is it,” Micho says excitedly. “Hailey, I have a big surprise for you!” We park and begin the methodical removal of riding gear. “Leave your gear on,” Micho says as he takes Hai- ley’s hand. “We have very lit- tle time to show you the surprise!” Our helmets off, we follow a walking path along the mountainside. To our left, the lodge reveals a series of steaming pools, each with a smattering of occupants. “There is a hot spring nearby,” Micho explains. “The lodge was built to harness the water and feed the pools. It has been here for nearly 80 years.” Micho guides us to a clearing, where an elderly man awaits. Without a word the man approaches Hailey, offering his hand and a smile. Hailey takes it tentatively. In her palm the man places a small container, its lid emblazoned in the colors and shape of a flower. He beckons her to stay very still.
After hitting a large obstacle and taking out the front brakes, a local repair shop was happy to diagnose the problem.
Suddenly, the air is abuzz with movement. A hummingbird streaks into view, landing on Hailey’s hand and drinking from the container. Soon, another bird joins the first, then another. I stare, shocked by the development. “I’ve never seen hummingbirds act in
this way!” I exclaim. “They are usually very shy.” Micho grips
the elderly man’s shoulder. “My friend Jairo here has spent many years training them to be comfortable around people.” Jairo places a second container in Hailey’s other hand, and a third on the bill of her hat. Soon she is covered in hummingbirds. “This is the coolest thing I’ve ever seen,”
Hailey says with wonder, and I know this will be the part of our trip she remembers most. We find our room and dress for a dip in
the hot springs. As Hailey swims in the pools, I relax, thinking about what the trip has given me. At 10 years old, Hailey is in what many people have warned will be the sunset of happiness between a father and daughter, at least until the teenage years have come and gone. They say that as chil- dren become adults, it is in their biological makeup to rebel against their parents in
This was easily Hailey’s favorite part of the trip. Usually a shy animal, this Hummingbird has been trained to eat right from the human hand.
March 2017 BMW OWNERS NEWS 51
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