BIODEGRADABLE PACKAGING
“Biodegradable and compostable plastics
should really be used in applications that might end up in, for example, a composting environment such as agriculture
“Bio-based plastics have an environmental advantage to fossil-based plastics, because they have this bio-based carbon, which has been taken from the atmosphere by the plant, and is then set free,” says Ißbrücker.
Biodegradable plastics may in theory be better for the air, but they are not a solution for the plastic filling the oceans. Biodegradable glitter, which is frequently marketed as an ocean-friendly alternative to sparkly microplastics, causes the same harm to water sources as the ordinary product. Researchers at Anglia Ruskin University found that alternative biodegradable glitters could damage aquatic ecosystems just as much as conventional PET glitter. But the supposedly planet-friendly cellulose option also had an additional negative impact as it encouraged the growth of invasive species, such as the New Zealand mud snail. “Some people misunderstand that biodegradable plastics might be a solution to littering plastics in the ocean,” says Ißbrücker. “This is a message we do not support. Biodegradable and compostable plastics should really be used in applications that might end up in, for example, a composting environment such as agriculture.” Also, polylactic acid, a cheap and common biodegradable plastic from corn or sugarcane,
cosmeticsbusiness.com
that is estimated to make up a quarter of all compostable plastics sold worldwide, will not break down in water. It’s essentially as dangerous to marine life as common plastic. An alternative is polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) plastic that is produced by microorganisms, such as the bacterial fermentation of sugars. According to a study by the University of Queensland, it is expected to take between 1.5-3.5 years to completely biodegrade in a marine environment. Many countries, like the UK, do not have the infrastructure to handle biodegradable plastics. Closed-loop schemes with a dedicated collection for compostable plastics, like TerraCycle’s Biodegradable Plastic Zero Waste Box – available in the US – offer some hope. But to combat the plastic waste crisis, refillable cosmetics and luxury make-up items that will be treasured by consumers and refilled with their favourite shades may be a more sustainable choice. “There are producers and suppliers that want to do the right thing, but then they get caught up in the greenwashing,” says Ocean Plastics’ Ruxton. “But even if we could cut the plastic use by half, even if each product could be refilled once or ten times that would make a difference.” From councils to consumers and cosmetic packaging, the challenge is to get all of the elements in the same melting pot
December 2020 33
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