INGREDIENTS SCALP CARE
more oxidised lipids, which in turn leads to a proinflammatory response on the scalp.”
This, as well as causing irritation, contributes to a further increase of lipid production favouring greater proliferation of the fungus in something of a vicious cycle. Lubrizol Life Science, Beauty’s Seascalp biomarine ingredient reduces the accumulation of sebaceous lipids and the expression of proinflammatory genes.
It also upregulates genes involved in the barrier function and antioxidant defence for a more protected scalp. Also seeking to purify oily scalps is Symrise, with its SymControl Scalp, dedicated to normalising sebum production.
Following research, Symrise found an extract of the algae Tetraselmis suecica to be highly effective at reducing sebum levels, especially when combined with mannitol. The patented combination results in a clean-feeling scalp and hair while helping to space out hair washes, according to Symrise. Too dry scalps, as well as over-oily ones, are also prone to flaking. Here, two new ingredients from Givaudan Active Beauty have been developed to address these issues.
“People suffering from dry scalp may endure personal discomfort, such as an itchy scalp and dysfunction of the skin barrier, leading to dehydration and increased sensitivity to external factors, as well as unsightly consequences like dry flakes or lack of hair shininess,” says Mathias Fleury, Category Manager Active Beauty at Givaudan.
In September, the company launched Neosalyl – a 100% natural salicylic acid for skin and scalp. Created using a gentle and sustainable process that transforms methylsalicylate from wintergreen into pure natural salicylic acid in powder form, Neosalyl imparts shininess and anti-dandruff benefits to hair care. It has a keratolytic effect that removes scales from the hair fibre, making hair shinier, while exhibiting antimicrobial, anti-sebum and soothing properties to reduce dandruff and scalp discomfort. Meanwhile, K-phyto [SC] Camellia, introduced to the market by Givaudan Active Beauty back in April, proposes similar scalp benefits and a green
20 December 2020
profile to Neosalyl, being derived from sustainable biotechnology. An exclusive patented technology makes it possible for Givaudan Active Beauty to selectively boost the production of certain biomarkers, to boost K-phyto [SC] Camellia’s effectiveness.
It has been shown to provide holistic action against the consequences of a dry scalp, improving scalp moisturisation, decreasing dry dandruff and soothing the scalp. Derived from upcycled passion fruit and rich in piceatannol dimers, scalp rebalancer Saniscalp from Solabia has been developed to reduce the appearance of dandruff, which “makes the scalp very itchy, especially around the hairline and sideburns”, says Oriane Leroux, Product Manager at Solabia.
“Saniscalp soothes scalps suffering the effects of environmental stress, such as heat, or irritant chemical agents in hair dyes,” she adds. “This activity is demonstrated by the regulation of inflammatory markers MMP-1 and IL-18.”
It is also shown to improve the cohesion of scalp barrier function to limit desquamation, as well as strengthen the scalp’s natural defences to limit imbalances in the microbiota. An interesting angle from Codif focuses on the role of the bacteriobiota as well as Malassezia when it comes to combating pesky flakes. Capibiome from Codif is an elaborate composition of marine amino acids, marine sugars, a marine exopolysaccharide and aromatic water of lavandula, which allows for the rebalancing of scalp ecology while introducing soothing benefits.
REJUVENATION CLAIMS A healthy scalp is an asset to retaining healthy looking hair as we age, and new compositions to stimulate hair growth via scalp rejuvenation have also graced the market in recent months.
“Maintaining a healthy scalp helps to improve the quality of the hair, that means preventing
Solabia has harnessed upcycled passion fruit for its Saniscalp ingredient to reduce dandruff
miniaturisation and weakening of the follicle, contributing to stronger hair fibres,” says Provital’s Bouhrir. “Strong hair fibres means improving hair density and preventing hair loss. While promoting the benefits of scalp care, hair loss problems are also promoted.”
Kerascalp from Provital is a natural hair care active ingredient that taps into the well-ageing trend. Derived from amla (Phyllanthus emblica) fruits, a ‘rasayana’ (rejuvenator) and centuries-old ayurvedic ingredient, Kerascalp prevents follicle miniaturisation by increasing the expression of collagen XVII (COL17A1) while reducing its proteolysis, delaying degenerative and senescence related processes. It’s a process said to encourage steady hair growth to improve the quality and thickness of the hair.
Crodarom Phytessence Hazel Leaf has been developed to provide vitality and comfort to the scalp. Thanks to its essential nutrients content, the ingredient increases ATP synthesis within hair follicle dermal papilla cells. It also boosts production of collagen VII, reinforcing the cohesion between dermis and epidermis cells and, as a result, also reinforcing anchorage of the hair in the scalp. Finally, it imparts antioxidant and soothing properties. Burgeon-Up from Ichimaru Pharcos, meanwhile, promotes the secretion of regeneration-related protein R-spondin 1 in hair tissues to stimulate hair growth. R-spondin 1 activates the hair follicles’ outer root sheath, which is important in making thick hairs that don’t fall out easily.
Burgeon-Up, which is made from Japanese watercress, also suppresses the production of the hair loss factor DKK 1; again, this is due to the action of R-spondin 1. Mintel’s McDougall notes that greying hair, hair loss and scalp-related concerns are “fuelling innovation and trial”. All in all, he says, “products which focus on scalp health are poised to take a more
important role in hair care”. And, thanks to the flurry of activity in this
category from ingredients suppliers, such brands are ideally positioned to help consumers keep their head in the game
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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