April. Supersedure is common at the start of the season. So how can you tell if the bees are making cells in order to swarm, to supersede, or to replace a lost queen?
The first thing is to notice them in the first place. They are not always easy to spot when the combs are covered in bees. You will need to develop your skills in moving bees out of the way so that you can have a clear view of where they may be hidden.
I rest a corner of the frame on the top bars to stabilise it, and then I have a free hand to gently pat the bees with the back of my hand (actually my forefinger) to move them out of the way. I try not to brush them – just a light tap. I don’t bother with frames that contain only food but focus on those with brood. I concentrate on the periphery of the comb from the top bar, around the sides and especially along the botom edge. Sometimes I soſtly blow the bees out of the way, but occasionally they
can take exception to this (you will have to experiment).
I will write more about how to identify queen cells and what they might signify for your colony next month.
Drone brood
During the first spring inspections, I record when the colony starts to rear the drones – those very important boys.
Bees are unlikely to swarm before drone brood has become established because they won’t be strong enough. Drone production is another coming-of-age colony marker. Nests aren’t viable until there are enough workers and food to support them because they eat lots and don’t forage or do housework.
Drone production is also inhibited by some of the queen’s pheromones. This feedback mechanism ensures that the boys are brought on only when the colony
is ready. Colonies headed by older or poor queens might begin to make them when they are not so strong (less pheromones to inhibit them). Look out for supersedure cells if you recognise that this is the case. A healthy and vibrant colony will begin to make drones when the worker population has grown enough for the queen’s pheromones to stop influencing their inhibition.
If you see only messy looking drone brood during the first inspections in March or April, your queen is probably a drone layer. In my experience, laying workers don’t start until later, so let’s assume it’s a failed queen. It is possible to find her, take her out and introduce another queen, or unite them to another colony – but is the colony worth saving? What you have are old bees that have survived the winter but which haven’t much time leſt. If you unite them with another colony, are they going to benefit it or just be a drain on its resources?
Over the years, I have tried most options. If you think that the colony is still a going concern and you have the resources to fix it, then go for it! I may try to fix a drone- laying queen later in the season when I have more options available, but I would never buy in a queen to fix a colony at this time of year because these old bees will probably reject her.
Choose your batles – do the best you can, but don’t feel that it is all your fault if it goes wrong.
LEFT Workers licking and palpating the queen
ABOVE LEFT Play cups or queen cups may or may not become queen cells
ABOVE RIGHT Drones emerging
RIGHT A very populous colony will be less influenced by queen pheromones and likely to produce more drones and swarm
Next month
What do queen cells mean? When to add supers. Drone brood: good or bad?
Bee Craſt April 2020
19
Portrait of Clare: Steve Benbow. Other photos: Richard Rickit
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