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Adventure of life J


JOHN RIDGWAY


An inspirational meeting with John Ridgway, rower, sailor and outdoor trainer, interviewed and photographed by Patrick Roach


ohn Ridgway’s handshake is firm and he stares into your eyes. He asks lots of challenging questions, but is always in complete control: you must rise to the challenge. Here in Ardmore, he has created a special community with his family. The first challenge is reaching it.


Opposite: John Ridgway at Ardmore, with his Holman & Pye ketch English Rose VI behind his shoulder


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Sutherland is a 700-mile drive from the south coast (Spain is nearer), but that was no real problem. And John’s directions were simple enough: follow the lane off the main road signposted to ‘Ardmore’ until you get to an old Land Rover permanently parked at the end for post, provisions etc. After that, just follow the track, it’s all on foot. What we had not expected was to need the tracking ability of Tonto: there were three mountain passes, two crevasses, a stream and a waterfall to climb over. After this a steep climb up the side of the loch to a glossy green bank in a clearing at the top. It took us an hour and a half; his grandchildren apparently do it in 40 minutes, travelling to their school each day. We felt as if we had been spat out into Ardmore, which lay before us, a magical group of charming weather- boarded houses, above the glorious Loch Laxford. John had invited my friend Joanna and me to call in for a cup of coffee (as long as I brought chocolate wholemeal biscuits!). He proved to be charismatic and charming, autocratic but with an old-fashioned courtesy. He is very happy to talk but he can be provocative and teasing. He has always been restless, constantly planning travels and writing books, and he is a keen naturalist. He has a beautiful garden, plantations of rare trees and knows all about the local wildlife. He has all his possessions around him; they fill the house. All the things that he and Marie Christine, his wife, have collected over the years are contained in this home. There is no wall space: there are photographs, paintings, wall hangings, letters, rugs and textiles, natural objects like shells and…. books, books and pamphlets on every conceivable subject. The house has increased in size and structure; he has had to build a tower up on the roof as he ran out of space sideways, to accommodate all that pleases him. It is like a museum devoted to the Ridgway philosophy and spills out into other buildings. Some of these are


CLASSIC BOAT FEBRUARY 2012


inhabited by people who work for John, Marie Christine and their daughter Rebecca. There is also an old smokery and a boatbuilding shed.


Everything is precious, as transporting materials to this isolated spot is hard work. When building a much- needed slipway, many tons of concrete were required. This was no problem for John Ridgway – (yes, he did carry it himself) – he and his instructors brought 103 tonnes of materials across the loch.


For the next few hours we were royally entertained, except that I forgot to bring the biscuits; punishment lay in wait.


RECORD-BREAKING ROW It was in 1966 that the 26-year-old paratrooper Captain John Ridgway made his first claim to fame when he recruited Sergeant Chay Blyth to row a 20ft (6.1m) boat across the North Atlantic from Cape Cod to Ireland for a record-breaking attempt. They had known each other for about eight years and shared a great respect for each other’s considerable abilities, having endured many parachute jumps and survival exercises around the world as well as long-distance kayaking together. Their passage is well documented elsewhere, but when they set off the US Coast Guard predicted a 95 per cent chance of their committing suicide. After that, John explains, “A lot of people wanted to be the last to shake our hands. Once you say you’re going, there’s a lot of people wanting to see if you’ll die.” After two and a half months in atrocious conditions, their health aboard the boat – English Rose III – had deteriorated, but they determinedly plodded on. Their oilskins were disintegrating along with their bodies. Besides backaches, swollen feet, and blisters, painful rashes caused them misery. In addition, John suffered from boils, an excruciating vestige of an earlier bout with blood poisoning. He felt he was worn out and dying. That was the real challenge.


Their previous military training stood them in good stead for this hare-brained idea and doubtless ensured their survival. Sadly, two journalists who attempted the same trip around the same time did perish, and their upturned boat was found empty in the mid-North


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