CRAFTSMANSHIP Tools MicroTough Eight-piece hex key set
socket set Housed in a tough plastic case this Stanley set has sockets ranging from 7mm to 24mm (with 9mm and 20mm omitted); three extension bars, 3in, 6in and 10in, plus a ratchet handle with comfortable rubber coating, 3/8 to 1/2in adapter and a universal joint. This is a good quality set that should last for years. £43.38.
www.stanleytools.com Draper toolbox
A simple, lightweight toolbox, made of sympathetic plastic with no sharp edges to damage your boat by denting and scoring the paint and brightwork. Has a handle on the lid, two very positive clamps to hold the lid shut and what Draper calls a tote tray to hold small and often-used items. It even has a place for a padlock to hold the lid very shut. £13.23
www.draper-tools.co.uk Stock Number 49393. Classic Boat Forum
Delaminating rubbing strake
>> Some time ago I posted about the delaminating mahogany rubbing strake on my two-year old boat. On the advice of this forum I invested in some West G/flex epoxy and some clamps. I tried offering up the clamps, padded with waste oak flooring, and screwed them up. Not a sausage! The gap has refused to close despite considerable pressure. I can’t overdo it because I’m clamping against a hollow double- skinned fibreglass hull. I learned from the builder that the three strips were originally put on one at a time, screwing and gluing as they went. The outer lamina was screwed and plugged. I know I should really drill out the plugs, unscrew and try and remove the outer lamina, then do the same with the middle lamina and then redo from scratch.
90 CLASSIC BOAT JULY 2011
However, it hasn’t unglued the entire length and I risk breaking it to get it off. Help! Neil
>> How big are the gaps? You might find filling them with epoxy thickened with microballons will do the job. That mix is reasonably structural and blends with mahogany colours. Tranona
>> How long a section has unglued? It sounds like a glue starvation problem rather than inappropriate adhesive. Given the structure you have, why not limit the amount of work by removing
Closing the gap with G/flex and a heat gun... Below: the traditional way to do it
Got a problem? See our revamped Forum on www.
classicboat.co.uk
(eg) 4ft (1.2m) of the outer laminate, then 2ft (0.6m) of the middle one. If you make the end cuts at a very shallow angle (a 7-1 ratio) then you have the mechanism to reglue with virtually undetectable joins and, more importantly, to allow the reglued laminates to be clamped firmly together with no voids. Horatio
>> I tried to do a proper job, I really did! Each lamina is screwed and glued, with the outer plugged. I drilled out all the plugs and tried to separate the laminae – solid as a rock! I tried to close the gap by tightening the screws – they just turned. Clamping hard brought it in a little more at the cost of cracks in the gelcoat. So in the end, I clogged up the gap
with G/flex and used a heat gun to thin it sufficiently to be sucked into the gap by capillary action. While I now have a 1mm thick glue
line along the affected length, at least I know it’s now solid and stable. This would have been unnecessary if the boatbuilder had used an epoxy in the first place. Neil
Laser’s ‘T’ handle eight-piece hex key set, with ball ends, complete with stand for wall fixing, covers sizes 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10. A great set of Allen keys, it has handles that are called ‘T’ shaped when really they are more of an ‘L’ shape. On the long bit of the ‘L’ the key has a ball end where on the short end there is a plain hex key. Used in either way the operator can get a great deal of purchase on the set screw being either tightened or loosened. The long part of the ‘L’ gives the user an enormous degree of leverage. £33.06
www.lasertools.
co.uk
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