This page contains a Flash digital edition of a book.
51—MARYLEBONE JOURNAL


FOOD


One of Simon’s beautiful dishes from his Lake District restaurant, L’Enclume


So, why Marylebone and why sign


up for just two years? Simon pauses before explaining that there are many reasons behind the idea. He and his partner Penny Tapsell were offered the last two years of the Michael Moore lease and found that they could afford it themselves without having to involve other backers. This allows them to dip their toes into the London market and see how they’re received without any great risk. The restaurant needs redecoration, but they can keep their costs down by using their beautiful Italian furniture from L’Enclume, which is being replaced with locally made chairs and tables, hewn from Cumbrian oak. Coming to London is more


complex. It’s clear that Simon Rogan feels that he’ll only get the recognition his food warrants if he comes south, but there’s more to it than that. “In a way Penny and I are using the business to pay for a London life,” he says. “We want our son to go to school in London, and Penny’s going to run the business from London rather than Cumbria, as it doesn’t really matter where the office is,” he explains. As to Marylebone, they nearly got a restaurant here two years ago, but it fell through. “The area is a real jewel with its local feel and the sheer quality of shops and artisan food suppliers,” he says. Last, but by no means least, it turns out that they can stay with friends who live in the area until they find their feet. As we finish our tea, Simon pulls out


Simon pulls out his pad and as he does so, some well thumbed seed catalogues drop out onto the table. ‘It’s sad, I know,’ he says, ‘but I love reading seed catalogues.’


his pad to jot down some notes. As he does so, well-thumbed seed catalogues and menu notes drop out onto the table. “It’s sad, I know,” he says, “but I love reading seed catalogues.” “No,” I reply, “they make wonderful


reading,” thinking as I say it that they might inspire some even more wonderful eating. I wonder what scarlet ball turnip and sugar snax carrots actually taste like? Luckily, they’re listed on the menu. Anyone for scarlet ball turnip baked in salt, smoked yolk, blite and wild mustard, or sugar snax carrots with ham fat and nasturtiums?


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100