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49—MARYLEBONE JOURNAL


FOOD


Simon Rogan made his name in Cumbria, turning British ingredients into beautiful, innovative dishes. Sybil Kapoor meets this exceptional chef as his first London restaurant prepares to open


Building work is always regarded with territorial interest in Marylebone. Who is moving in and what are they doing? Many of you will have noticed that Michael Moore’s old restaurant at 19 Blandford Street is being transformed into a new restaurant called Roganic. It’s being publicised as a two year pop-up restaurant and is the brainchild of Simon Rogan, the Michelin-starred chef and owner of L’Enclume in Cumbria. Naturally, as a curious


Marylebonite, I felt honour-bound to investigate exactly what Rogan planned to do with his new restaurant. But as we sit over a cup of tea at La Fromagerie, it soon becomes clear that Roganic, like all of Simon’s projects, is going to evolve week by week. He is not of the old-fashioned Michelin-style school where you create a menu, and then refine it so that it reproduces itself perfectly year after year. Rather, he is someone who is constantly adapting how he cooks in response to his environment, customers and current interests. Simon set up L’Enclume in the


RUN


picturesque Lake District village of Cartmel in 2002. Within a year he had a Michelin star and was receiving rave reviews for his beautiful, innovative food. “When we opened I had an idea of how I wanted to cook, and I tested it out for the first eight months,” he recalls. “At that time I was very influenced by Marc Veyrat.” Veyrat is one of France’s most famous chefs, who created wild and


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