1


Between late April and late August, SNH run a small inflatable boat that shuttles visitors across Noss Sound every day (weather permitting), except Mondays and Thursdays. Once you reach the island, make your way up to the small information centre – housed in an old island farmhouse – which has a small display about Noss. Next door is the pony pund, built by the Marquis of Londonderry, who leased the island from 1871 to 1900 for use as a Shetland pony stud farm. He bred the ponies to work down his coal mines in northern England. Today, SNH and the Gardie Trust, the island owners, manage Noss through an agreement. As well as being a nature reserve, the island is part of a sheep farm and a fine example of how farming and wildlife can co-exist.


2


In the 19th century, a hill dyke was built between Voe o’ da Mels (meaning ‘inlet of sands’) and the Geo of North Croo. This wall separates the better land on the west side of the island from the rough hill ground. During lambing, the flock of 350 sheep are brought to the west of the dyke, where the shepherd can keep an eye on them. You should see small numbers of grey or common seals hauled out in this area, or you may even spot an otter. We have recorded grey seal and common seal pups on the island for the first time in recent years, and there are also several otter holts.


3


Beyond the hill dyke, the land rises in a broad sweep to the eastern cliffs. Follow the coastal path south and you skirt round the boggy moorland heart of Noss, which is the stronghold of the skuas. Both Arctic and great skuas nest on the ground, laying up to two eggs in a shallow scrape. The adult birds defend their nests aggressively, swooping on anything that comes close. Skuas rarely make a direct hit, but if you’re targeted then hold your hand or a stick above your head to deter them. Please don’t try to hit them – remember, they’re only protecting their young. The great skua – or ‘bonxie’, as it’s commonly known – is a globally rare species. It’s gradually edging out the smaller Arctic skua from the island, with over 350 pairs of bonxies now nesting on Noss, making this the fifth largest colony in the world.


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36


The Nature of Scotland


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