M
y friend learned three important lessons that day. T e fi rst was how important it is to be able to draw a lung full of air when you can’t. T e second was
that even a horse that has never been known to kick can do so under the right circumstances. T e third was that particu- larly in situations where there are distractions or impedi- ments, we always have to adjust our body position in relation to that of the horse. Nearly every time I have witnessed someone get ing kicked
by a stressed horse the same factors have come into play. In this situation I started get ing a really uneasy feeling. It was one
of the few times that I probably shouldn’t have kept my mouth shut!
Kicks can generally be classifi ed in two ways: the rear kick
and the “cow kick.” T e rear kick is self-explanatory. T e cow kick involves a swiping strike forward with the hind leg. If you are behind the horse you could receive a rear kick. If you were standing alongside him at the rib cage, you could receive a cow kick. T ere are six primary reasons a horse will kick. Under-
standing what they are will help you assess your situation and take appropriate precautions.
AGGRESSIVE KICKS An aggressive kicker
can be particularly dan- gerous as he calcu- lates his actions, al- though aggressive kickers are usually more predictable than playful kickers. The aggressive kicker is likely to confront you “rump-on/head on.” By this I mean he’s not likely to engage in a sneak attack. He’s likely to wheel his butt around and come straight at you. If you suspect a horse is aggressive you need protective equipment and you have to know what you are doing. When I confront an aggressive kicker I make sure I’m wear-
ing a helmet, I have a 12-foot or longer horse handling rope and/or other handling equipment, and the environment al- lows me to send the horse off such as in a circle in a round pen. As soon as he starts to load up to kick me, I’ll go after him aggressively, such as by twirling the rope at his hindquarters. I have to make him uncertain about his aggression and decide to leave. I will not pursue him. Committed aggressors will often come after me a couple of
times more to see if they can intimidate me. I have to not only hold my ground, but also take away some of their territory each time they try me out. I will not try to prolong the tension and I will always give the horse a clear escape route. If I am fortunate enough to encounter the horse in a round
corral or small arena, I will send him off on a longeing circle as best I can. As soon as he has had a chance to blow off his anxiety, I will cause him to yield several times. The instant he shows me that he is willing to be submissive, I will back off and let him rest. Unlike the disrespectful or anxious horse whom I will encourage to come in and become buddies when he shows me good behavior, I’m going to keep the aggressive horse at a safe distance for a few outings until he can demonstrate to me that he can keep his aggressive tendencies in check. Only after the horse has consistently shown respect and restraint will I extend some trust and attempt to make friends.
NUISANCE KICKS Unexpected accidents can occur when horses kick at little
things that are bothering them. These horses tend to cow kick when they are irritated by discomforts such as fl ies, but they can also cow kick when they are irritated by the handler’s touch. Cow kicks don’t sound dangerous, and many are little more than very uncomfortable “brush-offs.” However a cow kick can be a sharp blow and do some real damage to the handler’s shin, or if bent over, the handler’s head! Horses that are itchy and sweaty, poorly groomed, fl y in-
fested or have dirty teats or sheaths may be uncomfortable and kick at their bellies. When we see a horse displaying this type of behavior our fi rst action is to try to resolve the nuisance that is prompting the kicks, bearing in mind that the horse is likely to bring a leg forward as we work on him. Horses similarly can kick backwards at nuisances that could
be nothing more than irritating sweat running down their hind legs or static electricity from their tails. Again, observing the horse for a short while before handling him may reveal the presence of these irritating discomforts. When attempting to resolve the causes of a nuisance kicker
we will attempt to keep the horse standing square. If he is overly fi dgety someone can hold his near side front leg up so that the horse can’t cow kick on that same side. (Please note that horses can cow kick on the opposite diagonal, so you need to be on the same side as the lifted foreleg.) If the horse insists on putting his front leg down, you should stay clear of the “kicking arc” when working near his belly or rib cage.
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