eating out by lance perkins and leo buck
The Fresh Flavors and QuainT Charm oF
At Last Café
Have you heard the one about the chef who wanted to open a catering business and
ended up with a restaurant instead? If so, you know the story behind At Last Café! The
creation of Master Chef John McLaughlin, the award-winning restaurateur reveals that he
was inspired to name his new place after the classic Etta James song—not to mention the
fact that he too was opening his own establishment “at last.” “We wanted to do casual fare
that I could add my own touches to,” he grins, admitting “Actually, I was looking for a place
to cater out of, and the idea just kind of grew from there.” Ironically, while they still offer
catering, he acknowledges, “now it’s the restaurant that seems to be bringing us the most
attention.” One visit and it’s easy to see why.
Having just celebrated their first anniversary in April, At Last Café is like a little Greenwich
Village bistro situated right in the heart of Long Beach. Small and simple but very neat, it’s
the kind of place with fresh flowers at every white linen-covered table. Sporting only a
few tables (including some outdoors,) despite its lack of snobbery, this spot’s real strength
lies in what’s on the menu and the expert way everything is prepared. “I always liked the
whole action of working in the kitchen,” McLaughlin says. Noting that he went to school
in New York, he further allows, “my first chef job was here in Long Beach, so it just seemed
appropriate I should choose this city to open my own place.” Commanding the attention
of the dining area is a large mosaic photo of a garden—not coincidentally, McLaughlin’s
own. “There’s all kinds of herbs and fruit trees there—everything,” He declares. In fact, from
it comes the key ingredient to what has fast become a hit at the Café—fresh squeezed
Orange-ade! “When we opened, I was serving lemonade made out of the lemons from my
tree,” John recalls, “and when they started to run out, I had a big orange tree too, so we got
going with them.”
Similarly, this subtle-sized eatery features homemade soup that is just as fresh, and while
the selection differs from day to day, it always comes in good-sized portions. (One recent
variety was an exquisite Butter Nut Squash Puree, which even the most hard-to-please pal-
ate would’ve been hard pressed to remember tasting anything finer)! Afterward, a unique
mix of classic Americana and slightly more exotic fare comprise the main course choices,
ranging from grilled burgers and meatloaf, to tender French Pot Roast. This latter entree is
served on a bed of al dente fettuccine noodles, with fresh-roasted vegetables, to which just
the right amount of tangy au jus sauce is added to bring out its robust flavor. In addition,
the Gnocchi (small potato pasta dumplings,) brazed in a creamy butter white sauce, and
served with junior shrimp is definitely an upscale indulgence for the appetite! Then again,
culinary surprises like this are just par for Chef McLaughlin’s delightfully delectable course!
Admittedly though, he himself confesses that as far as his personal favorite goes, it’s the
‘Brick Chicken“—a tender breast of chicken, seasoned and grilled, then presented along
side a healthy helping of “smashed potatoes.” “It’s one of the most requested items, “ he
advises. “Simple, but it always tastes good!”As for dessert, McLaughlin recommends, “The
Bread Pudding with Chocolate Sauce is always a big hit,” but he also holds that the Apple
Crumble with Vanilla Ice Cream has brought him a fair amount of praise too. However,
to really treat your taste buds, the Crème brûlée can’t be beat! Consider that few places
even offer desserts of such a high caliber, (and when you can find it, chances are it won’t be
nearly as exceptional as what’s made here)!
Despite such sophisticated offerings, the prices are amazing low, so any time you want
to brighten up your everyday work week with a quick and easy touch of the sublime, stop
on by. After all, sometimes it’s the most unassuming kitchen that produces the best tasting
cuisine, and At Last Café is just such a place! A worthwhile visit for fine-food aficionados
and adventurous diners alike, At Last Café is located at 204 Orange Avenue in Long Beach
(where Orange meets 2nd Street). They’re open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a.m.-8:00
p.m. Reservations accepted and recommended. For more information call 562.437.4837
or visit
jmchefcatering.com.
74 RAGE monthly | July 2009
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