TRAVELOGUE
make fi lms and pick over scripts and props from the hit Scandinavian crime shows. T e southern coast of Sweden is a place of
escape. At dawn, the sea at Skane is like glass, sparkling occasionally as the waters ripple gently. Parallel jetties disappear into the middle distance as my eyes adjust to bars of light streaking down through the clouds and light pink mist. At the stylish hotel Ystad Saltsjobad, guests are waking up to a day of spa treatments and restorative beach walks; emptying their heads of clutter. Staring out at the sea here is enough. I make my way to the remote old fi shing port
of Kaseberga. Climbing to the top of the hill, I see the Ale’s Stones before me, a megalithic monument of 59 huge boulders laid out like a stone ship. It’s a time-stopping moment; deeply inspiring.
A small incline gives way to a cliff that drops to the blue-grey brine whooshing below; waves burnishing the rocks in a skein of silver. A surge of sunlight bursts open on the grass, tracing an arc on the hill as its warm glow washes over me, illuminating the wilderness. As a storm approaches, copper and violet
ribbons begin to form overhead and in front of me, and as the sea merges with the sky, I’m left somewhere in between these two places. T is is one of Wallander’s preferred retreats and as I wander between the immovable bulk of these ancient stones and their secrets, I contemplate the gap between the screen and the mysterious, reality around me. Maybe both are as imaginary and unknowable as the other.
48 ABTA Magazine February 2015
SAMPLE
Sunvil Discovery has a three-night stay in Malmo from £523 pp (two sharing), including B&B accommodation at the centrally located Hotel Master Johan, fl ights (Heathrow) and train transfers.
sunvil.co.uk
From top: Malmo harbour; Ale’s Stones, Kaseberga
countrybycountry.com
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