36 BERMUDA
ISLAND WHERE LENNON FOUND THE LOST CHORD
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However even this genius went through a phase where he found his inspiration had deserted him – his song writing talent had dried.
That was until in the months before his tragic death in 1980 - Lennon became interested in sailing - chartering a yacht and with a crew of three, travelling 700 miles south-east across the Atlantic Ocean from New York to Bermuda.
During this voyage a huge storm blew up lasting several days, and as the Captain became exhausted, and the rest of the crew became sick, Lennon, the novice sailor, found himself at the wheel of the yacht fighting the wind and waves.
When they reached the safe haven of St George’s Harbour on Bermuda, and Lennon first encountered the island’s magical peace and beauty, he realised his creative block and been removed by his sailing experience and that within this setting, he could write songs and music again.
He then rented a house on the island and over the next two months, using a second-hand guitar acquired from a local shop, he wrote the songs which made up his last album, ‘Double Fantasy’, which its self was named after a flower – a freesia he discovered in the Bermuda Botanical Gardens.
By the time I first heard this story from a Bermudan taxi driver - later confirmed by others including a bar owner in the island’s capital, Hamilton, I had in my few days on Bermuda, already fallen under the island’s spell.
From my room situated within the beautiful sub- tropical gardens of the Elbow Beach Hotel, I could see, hear, and smell the Atlantic Ocean as she demonstrated her many moods - breaking onto the coral reefs which surround the island, washing over the pink and white sands, blue skies with clouds racing and beyond the horizon 700 miles of wild open sea to the next nearest land.
By night a crescendo of whistling from tens of thousands of Bermudan Tree Frogs merged with the sounds of the ocean to create the perfect backdrop for a restful night’s sleep.
Away from the coast of beautiful pristine beaches and rugged cliffs rolling hills rise made green with cedar and palm trees though which narrow winding roads link picturesque small towns and villages. Bridges link the several inhabited islands that make up the fish-hook shaped Bermuda and within are vast natural harbours offering refuge from from the ocean. John Lennon lived in New York for the last nine years of this life and had not been back to the UK in all that time, so Bermuda being British, must have seemed strangely familiar to him – British cars driving on the left-hand side of the road, red letter boxes, the
ohn Lennon – as one of the legendary Beatles, became one of the most famous figures of the 20th century – his songs still as popular today as they
ROBIN NOWACKI is inspired by the surreal beauty and splendid isolation of the island of Bermuda where John Lennon resdiscovered his songwriting genius
Queen as Head of State, pubs named after British historical figures, and place names like Southampton and Somerset Village.
This was also my experience, the people of Bermuda since the time of Lennon’s visit have chosen by a democratic vote to remain a British Overseas Territory, so a picture portrait of Queen Elizabeth II alongside one of the current Bermudan Premier greets you at the airport, and all cars drive on the left, though most now seem to originate from Japan. The currency however, is the Bermudan Dollar which has the same value as the American Dollar – both accepted equally, and with the USA just 90 minutes flight away compared with around seven hours with British Airways from London Gatwick, the vast majority of visitors now are from the States.
THE FORTY THIEVES ON THE ISLE OF DEVILS
Early sailors and settlers to the ‘New World’ had been put off this un-inhabited island party due to the dangerous uncharted reefs surrounding it, but also because they believed it to be haunted - full of weird noises – so they nicknamed Bermuda the ‘Isle of Devils’.
For the very first Bermudan settlers to arrive in 1609, it took a two-month perilous voyage from England on board a small wooden ship to reach the island, and then they only landed when forced to, after their vessel was ravaged by a hurricane – as they were on their way to settle in Virginia.
Once on Bermuda they managed to build an even smaller ship out of the wreckage of the original, on which the majority continued to Virginia, however a number remained becoming the original white settlers – known as then, and still referred to today, as the ‘Forty Thieves’.
Bermudan fisherman Jim West, a descendent of the Forty Thieves, and a young crew member Silver Whisper, one of the many cruise ship callers at the port of Hamilton on Bermuda MAIN ATTRACTIONS
A one-day travel pass which can be purchased from most hotel receptions, gives unlimited access to the excellent Bermudan bus service and the ferries which zigzag across The Great Sound and Hamilton Harbour. With one of these passes all the island attractions are within easy reach. Two harbours with fascinating histories – St George’s where Lennon landed, founded by the “Forty Thieves” with the UNESCO rated Old Town, and the Royal Naval Dock Yard, sit at either end of the island - both boasting many interesting old buildings and lively atmospheric pubs. To the south west a climb to the top of the Gibb’s Hill Light House offers phenomenal views across
the island, whilst the Botanical Gardens – home to the ‘Double Fantasy’ freesia - are close to the Bermudan capital, Hamilton.
BERMUDAN ACTIVITIES
With a year-round warm sub-tropical climate and clean clear safe waters in Bermuda’s natural harbours and bays the island is perfect for all forms of water sports and these are widely available. For the more adventurous who are prepared to venture out onto the Atlantic, fabulous Scuba Diving opportunities are available around some of the countless shipwrecks lying out on the reefs, while some of the world’s best Deep Sea Fishing awaits beyond that with serious catches including tuna.
June 2014 Travel News
The beautiful sandy beach at the Elbow Beach Hotel
Pretty St George’s Harbour, Bermuda
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