Fuselage is assembled over a drawn straight line (above left), after marking centers on bottom of all bulkheads. Hold fuselage to bench using a fuselage fixture. Scrap balsa triangles and two strips of balsa at the cabin
climbed on board with a high wing R/C mod- el. I later found out that they won the single- channel event. They were from New Mexico. The final day when the awards were pre- sented the movie starlet, Marla English, was present. Wow, she sure was pretty! I saw the Navy Blue Angeles fly the F7U Cutlass. I have never forgotten that summer, all be- cause of Ray and Dolores Morgan’s kindness.
Flying Ohmon the bench The Flying Ohm is a very simple model to
build. Many of the construction techniques are based on the early freeflight models. I will mostly talk about the minor changes I made to my replica and will offer some sug- gestions if you build the Flying Ohm. Wing: The original wing used 1 × 1⁄4-inch tapered trailing edge (T.E.) stock. This caused a slight depression where the T.E. meets with the curve of the wing rib. I slightly thickened the aft part of the rib and custom sawed a slightly thicker T.E., starting with 11⁄4× 3⁄8-inch stock. Using the larger stock also allowed me to trim off ma- terial until I had really straight pieces. The final T.E. dimension is 11⁄8 × 5⁄16-inch. The
area work just fine as seen in the photo. The landing gear (above right) is attached using 1⁄8-inch nylon straps and wood screws. The original model used soft copper wire lacing to attach the gear. Either method works fine.
original dihedral braces were 3⁄32 or 1⁄8 ply- wood. I chose to make them from 1⁄16 plywood and install on both sides of the spars. I also extended them beyond the center sheeting and tapered them to the next rib. I used hard balsa on both spars. I would suggest substituting spruce for the spars as the wing can be under more stress flying the model with modern power and equipment. If you are going to cover the wing with MonoKote, spruce spars are mandatory! Lastly, I cut out the leading edge (L.E.)
shape cross-section from a small block of balsa and glued a piece of sandpaper with contact cement and pre-shaped the L.E. pieces. I made a plywood template of the wing rib and pinned the template over a sheet of 1⁄16-inch balsa sheet and traced around the template with a #11 blade knife. This insures all ribs will be the same. The same method was used for the false ribs. The wing builds very fast and is enjoyable to build.
Horizontal stab and vertical fin: The structures are constructed per the original plan. I then sand the structures to the final airfoil shape before cutting out the elevators
and the center piece between them. I used a Sig flap control horn to join the elevators. The horn uses nylon for the arm and this eliminates metal to metal contact with the pushrod clevis. The elevators and rudder were hinged with DuBro nylon hinges. The original model used F&B brass hinges.
Optional wing The optional wing with ailerons is for
those who would like to jazz up the Flying Ohm. I didn’t consider using strip ailerons because the first models using ailerons were patterned after full scale aircraft. I think the barn door ailerons are more appealing and used the “TLAR” method to design them. The optional wing starts out exactly like
the stock wing. Build two wing panels, left and right, and sand to shape. Make a heavy paper template to locate where the ribs will be cut and then cross cut the T.E. to remove the ailerons. Cap off the aileron cutout at the ribs and install the sheeting above and below the cap you just installed. Add 1⁄16-inch balsa doublers to the exposed ribs. Now take the T.E. of the cutout
Fuselage nose block, L.G. fairings and stringers have been installed and sanded to shape (above left). After installing the L.G. and trial fitting the fairings, Roy removed the gear and tacked the fairings in place and sanded
FLYING MODELS
all. The fairings are removed and the L.G. installed and the fairings permanently glued in place. Roy installed the tailskid (above right) via controline style in case he decides to one day install a tailwheel.
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