Step 4, 4A, 5, and 5A For this panel, I decided to make it look like three wooden planks surrounded by a wood frame. Similar to what a cabi- net door might look like. If you look at a cabinet door, you’ll no- tice the top and bottom rails that are part of the frame, have the grain run horizontally and not vertically like the rest of the door. To accomplish this, I used two strips of yellow Frog Tape (any quality masking tape will work, I just like Frog Tape) and taped off these two areas. In order to make the wooden planks more realistic, the graining procedure for each plank will be done separately by taping off the outer two planks and painting the center plank first. After the center plank is painted, it will be masked off and the outer two planks will be wood grained.
After applying my Frog Tape, I take my root beer and add some more 4011 reducer (about 50/50 paint to reducer) and 1 drop of the transparent black and 1 drop of Etac Con- ditionair. If you don’t have Etac Conditionair, use a drop of glycerin. This slows the drying rate of the paint so you can work with it a little longer. Don’t add too much Conditionair or glycerin or your paint will never dry. Holding your wood grain stencil in place, spray the root beer/black mixture through a small area of the stencil, spray the paint so it’s
nice and wet. Don’t worry if the paint spiders on the pan- el. Immediately remove the stencil and take your 2” paint brush and lightly brush the paint in one direction creating the wood grain. lf your paint is drying too fast, add a few more drops of reducer and spray a little heavier so it’s nice and wet. It may take one or two attempts to get the hang of the brushing technique and to adjust your paint viscosity to your liking. Don’t overwork the brushing or you’ll remove the streaks that are creating the wood grain effect. Continue spraying through the stencil and brushing out the paint until the first plank is done. If you want to add a knot hole, spray a quarter size circle of paint, roll up a small piece of red scotch brite pad and spin the rolled edge of the pad into the circle of paint. This knot hole technique is not my cre- ation it’s something I learned from the Richard Markham Master Series dvd’s, thanks for that great tip Rich. After I have completed the graining on the first plank, I do some free hand airbrushing to make some areas darker and add more streaks where needed. Dry the area and heat set with a heat gun. Now mask this middle plank off with masking tape or transfer tape. Just make sure to preserve the nice straight edges of the plank with the tape. Repeat the same graining procedure for the outer two planks.
Step 6 The space between the planks is created by laying strips of tape with a 1/8”to 1/4” space between them. Add another 2 or 3 drops of black to the root beer mixture and spray it in this gap. Remove your tape and take a last look to see if you want to touch up any graining or darken the knot holes. Just don’t over do the graining or you’ll start to lose the wood grain pattern you worked to hard to create.
Step 7 Using masking tape or transfer tape, butt it right up to the top and bottom taped off areas, then remove the original tape exposing the horizontal areas. Scuff these areas perpendicular to the rest of the wood grain with a red scotch brite pad, wipe with a tack cloth and spray some root beer and wipe with a paper towel, creating the un- derlying wood grain the same way you did for the wood planks. Using the stencil and the 2” brush, create the wood grain using the same spraying and dry brushing technique I explained previously. While you have the top and bottom portions of the wood frame taped off, let’s make it look three dimensional. Assuming the light source is from the top left, you can see in the photo where I shaded using the dark root beer/black color and where I used transparent white for the high- lights. The shadow area is where the frame rolls under and meets the planks and the highlights are on top of the frame.
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