Shem Creek kayakers and alligator photos © Dakota Walker
White ibis, least tern and great egret photos © Chris & Cami Photography
Dupre, a retired tree specialist with the U.S. Forest Service, an early autumn Sunday found me paddling a kayak with Nature Adventures Outfitters. Owner Kathie
T BY EILEEN ROBINSON SMITH
Livingston and her naturalist guides readily share their vast knowledge of the Lowcountry’s waterways. Dupre certainly knows his trees,
Nature and the region’s early his- tory. He explained that the Sewee Indians lived in a large village on Awendaw Creek prior to the British invasion in 1670. As we paddled, he told the story of their demise and analyzed the flora and fauna: “That is a muscadine grape- vine. … these trees are white oaks. … look, yellow gerbera daisies. ... those are wood duck houses. … the gnarled “knees” of the cypress give it stability.” “See how the endangered swallow-tailed kites swooped
down on that wasp nest? These birds winter in Brazil and throughout South America,” Dupre added. For this black water trip, you can opt for a two-hour or three- hour gentle paddle; the latter allows more time on the Santee River. A benefit of the Lowcountry’s mild climate is that kayaking is pos-
sible year-round. As Dupre put it, “I’d rather paddle in January than in the heat of July.” Chris Crowley, head steward at Coastal Expeditions, echoed that senti- ment, explaining why this is a great time to go kayaking. “The temperature is not so hot that you can fry an egg on your fore-
head. With watersports, you have to expect to get wet. When the air temperature is cool and the water is still warm, it’s just perfect,” he said. “November and December are the best time of year to be out on the water because of the transitional features of our saltwater estuary,” said Crowley. “It’s a peak time in bio-diversity, because we have visitors. We are on the flyway for birds going south.” Transient birds participating in the annual migration include raptors
– birds of prey such as hawks, falcons and eagles; passerines – smaller perching birds such as warblers and finches; and migratory waterfowl such as ducks, geese and
swans.The birds take a break in the Lowcountry because there is so much good food in the area. Shrimp, oysters and marsh grass are all in season. “Te all-you-can-eat, 24-hour seafood buffet is hoppin’,” Crowley explained. Luke Pope-Corbett of Charleston Kayak Company agreed that autumn kayaking is a great way to spot birds and wildlife. He said many summer residents are still in the Lowcountry as well, and the wealth of fish in area creeks are a magnet for bottlenose dolphins. In freshwater areas, alligators
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HE WATERS OF CHICKEN CREEK ARE DARK, and the foliage on the banks is dense. Now within the Francis Marion National Forest in McClellanville, this was Sewee land in centuries past. As today’s fiberglass kayaks glide effortlessly through the still waters, they fol- low the same paths as earlier birch canoes. Along with some young tourists and guided by John
Even in cooler tempera- tures, kayakers need plenty of sunscreen, dr ink-
ing water, a hat wi th a visor and sunglasses. You’ l l want binoculars and a camera to
get wi ldl i fe shots l ike these, but keep them in a water - proof bag unt i l you are comfor table on the water.
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