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APOSTLE ISLANDS, Lake Superior,Wisconsin


story and photo by Craig Blacklock, www.blacklockgallery.com


How would you design the perfect kayak playground? Separate 22 perfectly spaced islands with crystalline waters. Punch sea caves into Precambrian sandstone bluffs interrupting stretches of empty sand beaches. Scatter campsites among hem- lock and white pine forests and top it off with shipwrecks, a historic fishing village and wonderful restaurants. Then give most of it protected wilderness status with a National Lakeshore designation. Who could resist paddling through the multi-arched entrances to the caves after hearing the slurping, burping noises echoing from their dark interiors? If it is calm, you can paddle into the depths,


where you will see ancient ripple marks in the sandstone ceilings, and marvel at the jade-green water illuminated by underwater windows. Wear a dry suit if you have one so you can wade around in the frigid water to explore the caves. Some caves have tun- nels where you paddle completely through points of land. Powerboat wakes can enter the caves, so always keep plen- ty of overhead clearance or you may get pressed against the ceiling. A five-day trip that takes you to the best of the sea caves starts at Little Sand Bay Visitor Center and island-hops out to the north end of Devil’s Island and back.


GETTING THERE: Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is located at the tip of the Bayfield Peninsula in north- western Wisconsin.


MAPS: Survey charts #14966 or 14973.


CAMPING: Permits are required and must be picked up in Bayfield, (715) 779-3398. Reservations can be made a month in advance.


INFO: www.nps.gov/apis/home.htm.


CONDITIONS: The water is very cold, even in the summer. Average waves are between one and four feet, but six to 12-foot waves are possible. Approach and enter sea caves only in calm conditions. Ferry boat traffic is constant between Bayfield and Madeline Island and pleasure boats travel throughout islands.


OUTFITTERS: Trek and Trail, 7 Washington Ave., Bayfield (www.trek-trail.com).


UTENSIL TALK: Enjoy a traditional fish boil or a dinner of whitefish liv- ers at Greunke’s at 17 Rittenhouse Avenue in Bayfield.


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