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16 San Diego Uptown News | Jan. 21-Feb. 3, 2011


DINING DAVID NELSON / SDUN FOOD CRITIC


420 Robinson Ave. 268-2400 Dinner entrees $10.50 - $23.50 A daytime stroll along the Champs Elysees


a few years ago was interrupted by a young, well-dressed man who sashayed over to ask, “Sir, do you have an open mind?”


If he knew an American when he saw one, I was equally quick to recognize a con man, and answered, “No, I used to be a Republican.”


At one time I also had a closed mind about green beans, but the barriers opened wide when I tasted them cooked the French way. Many Americans are afflicted by a similar prejudice, which is com- pletely understandable if, as was


my experience, their childhood encounters with this sometimes- plush vegetable were with the soggy, canned variety. Should you include yourself in this sizeable group, make plans to dine soon at Au Revoir, the new Hillcrest bistro at the 4th and Robinson location that formerly housed La Vache. The menu’s many highlights soar high above the humble beans, but marvelously talented chef Rene


HAPPY


HOUR 7 Days


3 to 6pm


20% OFF ENTIRE CHECK


With the purchase of two entrees. Does not include drinks. Not valid with any other offers or on holidays. Exp: 02-03-11


Authentic Old World Mexican Cusine 3693 Fifth Avenue


• 619.546.5934 • huapangoscuisine.com Pennsylvania and Fifth Ave


Herbeck serves them in such wondrous form that you may beg him, “Please, monsieur, I would like more.”


The haricots verts, simmered


briefly, then sautéed (in butter, of course) until they reach the crunchy-tender stage the French prefer, accompany Herbeck’s elegant presentation of the Gallic restaurant combo commonly called “steak-frites.” This is a decidedly ritzier version, however, since the steak in question is sliced beef filet rather than a modest cut, and instead of a slab of herb butter, the sauce is a wonderfully buttery bé- arnaise that, laced generously with fresh tarragon, tastes deliciously of licorice. On one side rises a minor mountain of skinny, ultra-crisp French fries tossed with lavender (an unusual and beguiling touch), and on the other, what looks to be sufficient shiny, slender green beans to serve three. Chances are you’ll scarf them down without help from your tablemates. This new restaurant is the


creation of accomplished restau- rateur Antonino Mastellone, who usually opens Italian restaurants (Arrivederci, Il Postino, others) and staffs them with attractive young Italians. In the case of Au Revoir, he both follows and varies his pattern by presenting Uptown a


see Au Revoir, page 19


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