Escapes PHILADELPHIA
Savoring the end of a grand era
TONY KINDNESS
by Robert DiGiacomo All during a recent dinner at Philadelphia’s
French restaurant stalwart Le Bec-Fin, I kept a watchful eye on the sumptuous dessert cart as it made its rounds. At last it was my turn to get a close-up view of the dozen or so options and to hear them de- scribed by a young woman who treated them with all the seriousness that such fine sweets deserve.
Given three choices, I went for something classic (the restaurant’s signature frozen Grand Marnier Souffle); something rich and chocolaty (the rum-soaked Gateau Le Bec-Fin); and some- thing “light” (a coconut cake with caramel mousse, mango jelly and diced lychees). As I slowly worked my way through this fit- tingly rich ending, I made sure to gaze around the Parisian-style dining room tricked out in oversize crystal chandeliers, mirrors and gold trim. I wanted to savor the Old World atmos- phere as much as the food, since Le Bec-Fin’s days — as well as those of this type of grand din- ing experience — may well be numbered. The 40-year-old restaurant, which helped put Philadelphia on the nation’s culinary map, is up for sale and scheduled to close by June. Le Bec-Fin’s famously mercurial owner and
executive chef, Georges Perrier — who seems straight out of central casting, with his thick ac- cent, barrel-chested build and imperial manner —believes that the time is right to close this ma- jor chapter in his storied career. In the meantime, it’s business as usual for Le Bec-Fin, which is marking its anniversary with a $40 four-course dinner special. Or perhaps it’s more business than usual: A midweek reserva- tion was hard to get, probably due to the dis- counted prix fixe, which runs through October, and the interest generated by news of the im- pending closing. As a longtime Philadelphia resident, I’ll prob-
ably return at least one more time before Le Bec-Fin’s finale, but I’m more likely to head to its clubby downstairs bar than the more formal main dining room. Le Bar Lyonnais fields a less pricey a la carte menu that even includes (sacre bleu!) a burger and fries. Granted, it’s no ordinary patty: The $14 prime ground sirloin is topped with a cherry tomato confiture instead of plain old ketchup and served on a house-made brioche-style bun with hand-cut fries. But the burger’s very inclusion is one of the concessions that Perrier has made in recent years to try to stay relevant.
fixe. Even with these changes, Le Bec-Fin (the name is a French idiom for a refined palate) seems to belong to a different era, and not in a bad way. While other restaurants spill out onto the sidewalk, Perrier’s is a rarefied white- tablecloth sanctum behind a polished brass door. Inside, the staff is friendly but not too famil-
iar, swirling around you in a pleasant buzz of ef- ficiency. Someone refolds your napkin when you leave the table, various servers consult on the wine, take your order and bring the bread, and someone is always available to escort you to the restroom if you don’t know the way. Although Le Bec-Fin’s closing is unfortunate,
it’s more a changing of the haute guard than a sign that Philly’s food scene is losing its mojo. Several chefs come to mind as possible suc- cessors to Perrier, who was born in the French culinary capital of Lyon, trained at top tables and came to the United States in the late 1960s. But these heirs apparent are very different in
ROBERT DIGIACOMO
At Le Bec-Fin, which is scheduled to close by June, the main dining room exudes an Old World formality. Top, menu selections include turbot with radishes and hibiscus flower.
Several years ago the restaurant made delib-
erate moves to loosen things up. It no longer re- quires jackets for men, although they’re “strongly encouraged.” The staff has stopped bringing the food to the table beneath silver domes and revealing the dishes with a theatri- cal “Voila!” And my sommelier was a woman, a rarity in many restaurants, let alone one as tra- ditional as Le Bec-Fin. Perrier has also experimented with all kinds of special menus, discounts and even a pay- what-you-wish gimmick last summer. The reg- ular prices are stiff — dinner is $80 a person for four courses and $120 for six courses — but not out of line for this caliber of restaurant. Lunch is much more affordable, with a la carte options and the relative bargain of a $55 five-course prix
Getting there Philadelphia is about 140 miles north of Washington on Interstate 95.
style. Marc Vetri, with his shaved head, grape leaf tattoo on one arm and love of motorcycles, is more rock-and-roller than traditional chef. A James Beard winner, he now runs three restau- rants, including his flagship 40-seat contempo- rary Italian Vetri (in the building that first housed Le Bec-Fin) and two more-casual spin- offs.
Another chef with an increasingly big rep is the low-key Jose Garces, who first made his name at Stephen Starr’s El Vez. Since 2005 he has opened a pair of famed tapas restaurants, Amada and Tinto, and four other spots in Philly and in his native Chicago. He also has received a James Beard award, authored the “Latin Evolu- tion” cookbook and been named a winner of “The Next Iron Chef.” Meanwhile, the 66-year-old Perrier, who co- owns and/or manages three other restaurants, doesn’t seem likely to stray too far from the foo- die scene he helped create. He is mulling open- ing two more places in the city and another in the suburbs. And given that he recently returned to France to celebrate his mother’s 100th birthday, it’s very possible that he might be found presiding over some restaurant kitchen, if not in 40 years, then certainly for some time well into the fu- ture.
DiGiacomo is a Philadelphia writer and co-editor of The City Traveler, an online magazine.
Sunday in Travel: The Impulsive Traveler hits Florida’s Panhandle to hunt for bargains and clear beaches. STAYING THERE
Hotel Palomar Philadelphia 117 S. 17th St. 215-563-5006 www.hotelpalomar-
philadelphia.com Upscale Kimpton- owned boutique hotel. Rooms from $135.
EATING THERE
Le Bec-Fin 1523 Walnut St. 215-567-1000
www.lebecfin.com 40th anniversary $40 four-course dinner from 5-6:30 p.m. Tuesday- Friday, through October. Regular four-course dinner is $80 prix fixe.
Amada 217 Chestnut St. 215-625-2450
www.amadarestaurant. com
Flagship tapas restau- rant of Jose Garces. Small plates from $5; chef’s selection from $45 a person.
Amis Trattoria 412 S. 13th St. 215-732-2647
www.amisphilly.com Casual Roman-style Italian restaurant from chef Marc Vetri. Pasta dishes from $14.
Tinto
116 S. 20th St. 215-665-9150
www.tintorestaurant.com Garces’s tapas bar and restaurant specializing in Basque-style cuisine. Small plates from $4; chef’s tasting $55 a person.
Vetri
1312 Spruce St. 215-732-3478
www.vetriristorante.com Intimate upscale Italian restaurant. Tasting menu from $115.
INFORMATION
www.visitphilly.com
17
THE WASHINGTON POST • FRIDAY, AUGUST 27, 2010
IF YOU GO
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134