issue18

Jeff O
maintenance either so paint built up in and on the outside of
that gun. Needless to say I got so frustrated I put the airbrush
I am a pure en-
back in the box it came in and didn’t look at it again for years.
thusiast of the
That was until I decided I wanted to paint my tins on my ride a
airbrushing art
couple of years ago that I picked it back up. Now the Internet
form. I was given
is booming and I did searches on the topic of airbrushing and
my first airbrush
found several sites that have allowed me to learn, and learn at
over 20 years
my own pace. The amount of “How-To’s” available on the sites
ago, a badger
and magazines helped me a lot to work thru the frustrating
150. My first at-
learning stages. Now that I have practiced what I have read I
tempts with that
want to give some of this information back. I took plenty of pic-
brush were pret-
tures of the Taylor Made 580 golf club that I painted. Hopefully
ty much just spraying paint through the gun with out knowing a
the information here will benefit at least one person. Enjoy.
thing about it. Those days I was haunted with severe tip dry and
not knowing what to do with it. I didn’t practice good airbrush
The materials and equipment used for this club are as fol- PPG DX330 Wax and Grease Remover, PPG DBC Base Coat
lows: Soap and Water, Shop rags, 800 Grit Sandpaper, 3M White, PPG DBC Base Coat Black, PPG DC3000, PPG Me-
Green Tape, Standard Masking Tape, HOK KK08 Tangerine dium Temperature Hardener. Equipment: Iwata HP B+, Iwata
Kandy, HOK KK12 Pagan Gold Kandy, HOK KK11 Apple Red Eclipse HP-CS, Devilbiss Plus Gun, 3m Dual cartridge respira-
Kandy, PPG DBC500 Intercoat Clear, PPG DT870 Reducer, tor.
First step you have to complete is to bring out our your dishpan hands and give
the club a good solid cleaning with good ole’ soap and water and dry it off with
whatever method works best for you. Once cleaned, you must ensure that the
club head is free of wax and grease. During this step I used a clean shop rag and
applied PPG DX330 wax and grease remover to the club. As you can see in this
picture you never know what condition the surface may be in, so you need to be
thorough in cleaning it.
Once the surface is properly cleaned the areas of the club that should not be
touched by paint need to be masked off. During this step 3M green masking tape,
standard masking tape, and a shop rag were used. The 3M green was used to
cover the face of the club as well as the shoe of the head of the club. 3M was also
used at the beginning of the shaft. Then the standard masking tape was used to
cover the shaft to help protect it from accidental dinging or marring of any kind
on the shaft. Lastly the shop rag was used to cover the grip of the club in order to
prevent any of the adhesive from contaminating the grip. Regular masking tape
was used over the shop rag at the top, middle and bottom of the grip to hold it in
place.
With the club masked the next step will be to ensure that the time and effort paint-
ing the artwork on this club will be well spent and the paint will adhere. Get the 800
Grit sandpaper and scuff the entire surface to be painted. Make sure to be VERY
careful on the edges of the club head. These areas are easy to burn through the
existing base coat. However if this does happen you could use a base coat paint to
fix the problem. Once you have the club dull in all areas that will be painted clean
the surface again with the PPG DX330 wax and grease remover. If there is any
surface that is still shiny you need to make sure that the area is scuffed. Continue
this process until all areas are dull; then give a last cleaning with the PPG DX330
wax and grease remover. The club is now ready for the first layer of paint.
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