I
felt
all dressed up with nowhere headwinds and beating to weather the reflection was so perfect in the faint
to go. I planned to leave two days in the open ocean that I needed to dawn light. I hardly wanted to disturb
earlier but thick fog prevented it. experience again to decide on my future the scene by starting the motor and
At least I had made it from Bamfield to plans with this boat. A mid-September lifting the anchor but the kingfishers
Effingham Bay in Barkley Sound so I departure for sailing up the outer coast were making their raucous morning
wouldn’t go stir-crazy waiting to begin was not my first choice of timing but I sorties and so I joined them in disrupting
my Big Adventure, singlehanding was happy it was now happening at all. the peace. I picked my way through
offshore up the West Coast of Maybe I would find less fog this time of the islet/rock-pile that is the Broken
Vancouver Island, BC. I had spent two year and perhaps it was fortuitous as Group and followed the haunting
years preparing Shariyat, my Columbia this summer had been one of stronger sounds and soon came across them.
26 MkII to cruise offshore but hadn’t westerlies and numerous gales. At least What a spectacle of sight and sound!
been past the Gulf Islands yet so this I would find no crowds of cruising Hundreds of big brownish half-upright
was to be the big test. Perhaps more boats in the favorite anchorages. But beasts swaying and butting breasts like
importantly, this would be a trial for the Equinox can often bring the first of drunken sailors amidst the chorus of
me as well. Although a life-long sailor the countless gales that rule this coast their loud morning song of prehistoric
with much offshore experience, that in the darker months of the year. And grunts, barks and gurgles, all echoing
A Sailor Returns Home
A good traveler has no fixed plans and
is not intent on arriving.
Lao Tzu, 570-490 BC
to the Sea
By Lance Ekhart
was ten years or more ago and the maybe I needed to experience this like “sen-surround” off the islets
unfortunate demands of life had taken as well to make my decision. I was around me. I drifted far enough away
me far from the cockpit since those reminded of Irving Johnson sailing from them to not disturb their reverie
youthful and adventurous days. Was “Peking”, the last of the old square- and was captivated by the natural
this where I wanted to put my energies riggers around Cape Horn asking for a primitiveness of my surroundings.
again? Would this trip re-awaken the first-class storm there so he could fully This was the wildness I had so missed
old joys and eager anticipation of being experience it. No I wouldn’t ask for in the 9 years since I had left Alaska
at sea with all its wonders, challenges that, but it could happen sure enough and was the restoration I needed from
and surprises? Or would I now only along the way. this outer coast experience. But a bigger
recognize the ordeals it could hold and I awoke to a welcomed surprise – adventure was yet ahead of me and it
find myself asking why anyone would no fog. I had been hearing the sea-lions was time to begin. I thanked the sea
want to do such a harebrained thing? I during the night from their wild outer lions for their hearty send-off, motored
had to find out, this year, before I put lair on the edge of Barkley Sound and I off around the fringing islet and into
any more efforts into such an idea. decided to go find them on my way out the open Pacific Ocean, once again.
The usual way to travel the West to sea. Although it was overcast and There was no wind at all to greet
Coast of Vancouver Island is to go misty that early morning, I could see me into the long, deep Pacific swells
North up the east side taking advantage across the couple miles to the far side as I took my departure off Sail Rock. I
of the currents and down the outside of the island group, enough visibility wanted to quickly make miles offshore
to take advantage of the prevailing to make my departure at last. It was so to get beyond the shipping lanes
Northwesterly winds but this wasn’t quiet and still it was hard to see where where I could safely catch some sleep
the experience I wanted. It was the the shore ended and the water began as that night so I continued to motor SW
48° No r t h , Ju N e 2009 Pa g e 46
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