Lowtide
Galley Essentials with Amanda
Amanda outside
Nimmo's Cafe at
Spanish Arch
As I follow the claims is a wonderful
Volvo Ocean Race I’m woman who talks
excited that the fl eet will fast, works fast and
be in Galway, Ireland moves fast. Lunch was
the fi rst week of this excellent and I highly
month. Having raced recommend trying
in the Whitbread, the their chowder recipe
Volvo’s predecessor, I as well as with others,
know the excitement gathered during our
and importance of captivating Galway
a stopover. I’ve also discovery.
visited Galway so I can assure anyone
attending the Galway Volvo Ocean
Discovering Galway
Galway Bay Mussel &
Festival, that they’re in for a terrifi c time Smoked Haddock Chowder
or some “craic”, as they say in Galway.
by Amanda Swan Neal
½ cup unsalted butter
After our southern Ireland landfall ½ onion - diced
last year, John and I decided to take up its protection to exchange wine and fi ne 1 carrot - diced
the offer of George, one of the crew, to cloth for animal pelts and fi sh. ½ leek - diced
visit him on Ireland’s rugged west coast George explains that the Spanish 2 celery stalks - diced
at Rosmuc on the Connemara peninsula. Arch was formerly known as the ¼ cup fl our
I’d been fascinated with this area west Fishmarket; it was here that the women 2 large vegetable bouillon cubes -
of Galway for some time, as it’s known from the Claddagh area sold the fi sh coarsely chopped
for its sean-nos dancing or old style Irish caught by their husbands. The Claddagh Pinch of saffron
stepping, which I’ve been learning. We is located on the west Corrib river bank 5 cups whole milk
rented a car in order to see more of the directly across the from Spanish Arch 1 bottle clam juice 8oz
countryside, but George informed us that and is famous for the Galway Hookers, 1 lb smoked haddock
Rosmuc is rather diffi cult to navigate to, working sailboats which were used for ½ lb cooked baby shrimp
so he offered to meet us in Galway. hundreds of years to transport turf, fi sh, 1 lb mussels - rinsed and debearded
The historic city of the tribes cattle and people all over Galway Bay. 2 tablespoons chopped dill
defi nitely dances to a beat uniquely its Recently there has been a major revival In a large fl ameproof casserole pan,
own. Easily walked from one end to and renewed interest in the hookers melt half the butter. Add onion, carrot,
another in half an hour, there’s a certain and George promised to introduce us leek, and celery. Cook, 8 minutes stirring
chemistry and vibrancy to this friendly, to the fl eet he races at Rosmuc. Perhaps frequently. Add remaining butter. Blend
university town; music, festivals, pubs, an even better known association with in fl our and cook, stirring constantly, for
restaurants, shops, parks, theatres and this area, to us girls, is the distinctive 5 minutes or until fl our colors slightly.
most of all the Galway people create a Claddagh Ring featuring two hands Stir in bouillon and saffron. Gradually
lively festive atmosphere. clasping a heart, usually surmounted pour in milk, stirring constantly, ensure
We soon fl ed the busy cobbled High by a crown. mixture is smooth. Stir in clam juice,
and Quay street shopping lanes and “Okay,” says George. “It’s time for bring to a boil. Add fi sh and shrimp.
gravitated towards the waterfront where lunch. How about my favorite café, Lower the heat and simmer gently 5
the Spanish Arch provides a decorative Nimmo’s?” minutes, stirring occasionally. Add
end to the sturdy town stone wall. Built in Nimmo’s, located in the renovated mussels and cover with lid. Turn up heat
1519 to protect the merchant trade ships stone smoke house at Spanish Arch and cook 2 minutes (watch the pot so it
from looting, its current name refers to courtyard, is owned by George’s friend doesn't boil over) or until the mussels
Spanish galleons that often docked under Aoibheann McNamara whom he open. Sprinkle with dill.
48° No r t h , Ju N e 2009 Pa g e 34
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