Elements
DIMENSIONS Length, width and depth are rough indicators of a canoe’s speed, stabil- ity, capacity and seaworthiness.
Length = Speed Length is the primary factor in de- termining speed. Given two canoes of different lengths, with all other specifications being the same, the longer canoe will be faster. It will also track (travel in a straight line) better and carry more gear. Shorter canoes will be lighter and more manoeuvrable.
Width = Stability Te boat’s width and cross-sectional shape govern stability. A wider canoe will generally be more stable. Width, also called beam, is given in two mea- surements: gunwale width and water- line width. Te waterline width has the greatest influence on performance because this area forms the footprint of the boat—the width of the boat actually in the water. Wide-beamed canoes offer great stability but also present greater resistance to the wa- ter. Narrow canoes may be less stable, but are faster and more efficient.
Depth = Capacity and Dryness Depth refers to the distance be- tween the bottom of the hull and the top of the gunwale. Depth is typ- ically measured at the bow, centre and stern of the boat. Te amount of depth influences the freeboard—the distance between the waterline and the gunwales. Greater depth allows for increased carrying capacity and protects against swamping. Deeper canoes, however, are harder to handle in windy conditions and will be heavier.
LxWxD = Carrying Capacity Taken together, the basic dimen- sions add up to a canoe’s volume— the total amount of internal space. Carrying capacity is measured in different ways, but typically refers to how much weight the boat is able to displace while maintain- ing at least six inches of freeboard. Carrying capacity can be increased by making the boat wider, longer or deeper. Widening without adjusting the length increases drag, reducing efficiency. Increasing the length is usually the best solution, while increasing the depth can help as well. Tis is why cargo-hauling trip- ping boats are long and deep but not excessively wide.
of Canoe Design
The sheer variety of canoe models available can make choosing a canoe that is right for you daunting. But by breaking down designs into the elements of shape, dimensions and materials, it is possible to give yourself an educated headstart in the search for your new canoe.
SHAPE After the raw dimensions of length, width and depth, canoe perfor- mance is determined by hull shape. Front, side and overhead views of the boat reveal cross-section, rocker and symmetry characteristics.
Cross-section—Initial and Secondary Stability Te cross-sectional shape of the bottom and sides of the canoe will influence its performance, especially its stability. Stability is divided into primary (initial) and secondary (final). Primary stability is what you feel
when you first get into the boat. In a boat with great primary stability, you can stand up and walk around. It takes a lot of effort to flip the boat on flatwater. It resists leaning until it reaches a point of no return, beyond which it quickly upsets with- out much warning. Tat’s because secondary stability was sacrificed for the stable platform providing primary stability. Secondary stability refers to how
the boat behaves as it tilts. A boat with great secondary stability feels stable and predictable when on a lean. Tis is a useful characteristic for whitewater, rough-water pad- dling and soloing. Flat-bottomed canoes offer great
initial stability at the expense of speed and rough-water perfor- mance. Being very secure on calm water, they’re great for sportsmen and recreational paddlers. Round-bottomed boats are the
other end of the spectrum. Perfectly rounded bottoms allow for clean entry and exit lines and minimal surface area in the water. Tey have great speed and efficiency but virtu- ally no primary stability. Tis is why rowing shells are round-bottomed but canoes, except for a few fast, specialized designs, usually are not. Most canoe designs are a compro-
mise between flat and round, with shallow-arch or shallow-V bottoms. Tese designs sacrifice varying degrees of primary stability for good secondary stability and all-around performance. Te cross-section of some canoes
is modified by the addition of a keel. A keel is a ridge that runs the length of the outside of the hull bottom to help the canoe track and resist the influence of crosswinds. Keels are most often found on short,
wide canoes used for recreation and sporting. Tey are undesirable in whitewater because they reduce manoeuvrability and snag on rocks. Te sides of canoes can be flared,
turned-in or straight. Flared sides deflect water. Tumblehome describes the shape of a canoe with turned-in sides. Tumblehome results in a nar- rower beam at the gunwales making it easier for the paddler to reach over the side of the canoe when paddling. Straight-sided canoes are a balance between the paddling efficiency of tumblehome and the dryness of flare. Canoe designs will incorporate one, two, or all three of these in different areas of the hull.
Rocker—Tracking vs. Manoeuvrability Viewed from the side, the amount that the canoe’s keel line (the bot- tom profile of the canoe) curves upward toward the bow and stern is termed rocker. Te amount of rocker determines how easily a boat turns versus how well it tracks. A straight keel line (no rocker) allows for exceptional tracking, ideal for cover- ing long distances in a straight line. A canoe with a lot of rocker offers exceptional manoeuvrability.
Hull Symmetry and Taper Viewed from above, symmetrical canoes have identical bow and stern ends with the widest point at the centre of the hull. Tis design offers more versatility because it can be paddled as a tandem or a solo canoe. Asymmetrical canoes typically have the widest section behind the centre of the boat creating a longer bow. Tis shape increases forward speed and tracking and is often seen in tour- ing and performance boat designs. Touring and performance boats will also have sharper tapers at the bow and stern to cut through the water efficiently. Whitewater and general- purpose boats will have blunter ends to add volume and give buoyancy in waves, providing a drier ride.
MATERIALS Once you have chosen a design that suits your needs, your choice of material will be based on durabil- ity, cost, weight, aesthetics, and the shape requirements of the canoe. Tere are a staggering number
of materials used to make canoes including wood (sealed with canvas or fibreglass), polyethylene plastic,
Royalex, and composites (glass, Kev- lar or carbon/graphite fibres mixed with adhesive resins). Strong, lightweight composites
such as Kevlar are good for trippers, racers or anyone else willing to spend money to shave off weight. Heavier Royalex boats are
favoured by whitewater paddlers who need a canoe that will bump, bounce, slide and bend over rocks. Royalex, a supple vinyl-and-foam sandwich that looks like plastic and bounces back to shape when deformed, is also well-suited to the round, blunt shapes of most white- water designs. Wood canoes—expensive once
the craftsmanship is factored in—are in a class of their own. Tough relatively fragile, mainte- nance-intensive and not exception- ally lightweight, wood boats are plainly beautiful. Many paddlers are willing to give a little more care and take a little more weight for the timeless beauty and authenticity of a wooden boat. Less expensive materials like
fibreglass and polyethylene are used in a variety of boats for a wide range of purposes. In the simplest terms, these materials share the advantages of their higher-end cous- ins—composite for lightness, plastic for durability. Finally, many manufacturers have
their own versions or combinations of these materials, proprietary con- structions with trademarked names.
WHICH ONE SHOULD I BUY? Whether you are new to paddling, crossing over from kayaking or a seasoned canoeist, you should determine your needs and desires before you wander into your local retailer or builder’s shop to buy a canoe. Be wary of the “a canoe is a canoe” sales pitch or the “does-it-all” model and be sure to test-paddle a boat before buying. It’s best to test- paddle a canoe under the conditions you will likely use the boat—outfit- ted, loaded with gear or on your favourite class of whitewater. Some trim options, such as
moulded, adjustable seats and sculpted yokes, affect the perfor- mance and handling of the boat. Others, such as wooden gunwales, wicker seats and cherry deck plates, serve the same functions as alumi- num or vinyl alternatives, but im- prove the overall feel of the canoe. Buying a canoe is about under-
standing how the design elements affect performance and identifying which performance characteristics are most important to you. If you take your time and do it right you’ll be thanking yourself for a lifetime. » CANOEROOTS EDITORS
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