CONTRIBUTORS
Do we still need World Afro Hair Day? We hear from our regular contributor, education journalist Sal McKeown.
World Afro Day was founded by Michelle De Leon in 2017 to celebrate Afro hair, Black identity and culture. At that time, research by De Montfort University reported that 58% of Black students experienced name-calling or uncomfortable questions about their hair at school, one in four Black adults reported that they had a negative experience when at school in relation to their hair texture and 46% of parents said that school policies penalised Afro hair. Nearly ten years on, surely things have improved. However, a look at
school uniform and grooming policies shows we still have a long way to go. The web is littered with school websites full of rules that could disproportionately affect pupils with Afro-textured hair. Some policies ban haircuts shorter than a number 3 and prohibit hair extensions or braids. Others use adjectives that convey value judgments such as ‘extreme’ or ‘excessive’ or ‘inappropriate’ describing hairstyles they intend to veto. However, some schools get it right. Deptford Park Primary School celebrated World Afro Hair Day by encouraging children and adults to come to school with different styles, including braids, cornrows, space buns, Bantu knots and beaded hairstyles. ‘Our children were adventurous and excited to see how versatile their hair is and to try different styles to showcase their different hair textures.’
Not just a matter of fashion
For many Black children and families, hair is closely connected to identity, culture and heritage. Protective hairstyles such as braids, cornrows, twists and locs are also often practical choices. Afro-textured hair can require considerable maintenance, and protective styles can help retain moisture, save time in the morning and protect hair from damage. I talked to Krystal Rubie, a former teacher and now a Race Equality trainer in Ealing. ‘Hair is a big issue,’ she said. ‘It touches on attendance, health and safety, swimming, PE, maintenance, cost and, ultimately, belonging. That is why the issue should not be dismissed as a minor uniform dispute.’ She believes that many schools have little understanding of indirect discrimination. While they understand skin colour, they may be less aware that protection from racial discrimination extends to characteristics intrinsically linked to race, including Afro-textured hair and hairstyles. As a result, we still see children being excluded for having Afros and protective Afro hairstyles. ‘This can lead to a deep sense of marginalisation which can have a massive knock-on effect,’ she said. ‘Pupils who are asked to change their appearance to fit in, or sanctioned because of their hairstyle, are unlikely to develop positive relationships with their school or teachers.’
Educating decision-makers
Schools should review existing uniform, grooming and appearance policies through an equality lens. One starting point is the Halo Code, which explicitly protects pupils and staff wearing ‘natural hair and protective hairstyles associated with their racial, ethnic and cultural identities’. The Equality and Human Rights Commission’s decision-making guidance asks whether a policy could ‘affect some groups of pupils more than others’, including because of race, religion or belief, sex or disability. It offers examples: ‘An academy school bans ‘cornrow’ hairstyles as part of its policies on pupil appearance. These hairstyles are more likely to be adopted by specific racial groups. A ban without the possibility of exceptions on, for example, racial grounds, is likely to constitute indirect race discrimination. This is because it is unlikely to be objectively justified.’ Ofsted’s Equality duties on education inspection is another useful resource for schools reviewing their approach. PE is one area where the
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practical implications of managing Afro hair can become particularly obvious. The hair can shrink when it becomes wet and this can mean that a style does not last as long. Taking braids out can take several hours so it is not an easy option. For some pupils, getting their hair wet will mean additional time, expense and stress. Of course, not all Afro hair is the same texture and some children will not have these concerns, but schools should avoid dismissing them as trivial. A simple, practical solution would be to review PE kit so it is suitable for all and ask pupils with Afro hair what waterproof head coverings would work for them. This way, children can take part in lessons outdoors, even in wet weather. Krystal now runs a specialist workshop where schools explore how discrimination around Afro hair can stem from ignorance as well as prejudice, and how apparently neutral policies can disadvantage particular groups. One Black senior leader who attended her training said it had deepened their understanding of the implications for ‘hair discrimination, cost implications of policies, attendance, health and safety, swimming routines, PE rules and belonging’. Another described the course as a ‘gamechanger’, adding: ‘Now I understand why so many sanctions involve Afro hair, and I feel like we have a way forward to ensure one group is no longer being disadvantaged.’
Schools increasingly talk about fostering inclusion and a sense of belonging but policies around uniforms and appearance can remain rooted in historical ideas about what constitutes ‘acceptable’. These run counter to the identity and culture of many pupils and clearly a deeper understanding of the issues, and more inclusive uniform and grooming policies, are long overdue.
Krystal Rubie’s course: Understanding Afro Hair and Implications for School Policies. First course Friday 2 October, 9 am - 1:30 pm
u
https://tinyurl.com/Teacher-CPD-Afro-Hair
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