THE RHYTHM OF ST LUCIA


Dancing to a different beat


Forget reggae on this sizzling Caribbean island - it's all about country and western, as Nigel Tisdall discovered


O


n the scenic road that wiggles along St Lucia's mountainous west coast, it looked like just another viewpoint. Sheer cliffs, vistas of sparkling blue ocean, a simple rum bar painted in gaudy colours.


Only one thing was odd - the country music blasting from the bar's mighty speakers: George Strait, proudly singing All My Ex's Live In Texas (sorry about the apostrophe, that's how the title's spelt). What was going on? Aren't


islands like this meant to be all about reggae, soca and steelpan? That's the cliché, but St Lucians clearly didn't get the message. 'We're setting up for a party,' explains the bar's owner, Paula, 'and we'll be playing country all night. Everyone here loves it.' It's true. Turn on the car radio and there's Alan Jackson singing If Tears Could Talk. Drop into the Massy supermarket and shoppers are picking through the yams to anguished tunes by George Jones,


26 DIALAFLIGHT WORLD January 2021


Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton. Where did this love for songs about broken hearts and pick-up trucks come from? 'In the early Forties the United States set up two military bases here,' explains Steve Anius, a DJ who hosts a weekly country music show on Radio 100 Helen FM.


'This was the sound they played, which we'd listen to on AM radio.' One base was in Rodney Bay, now the main tourist area, while the other is today's Hewanorra International Airport in the far south.


There was a time when this taste for country went underground because it was considered 'white folks' music'.


'I had a record shop and customers would sneak the albums out under their shirts,' says Steve. But now this passion is out in the open, with all ages attracted. One reason is that country is free from the yelling, swearing and violent lyrics that characterise some other popular music styles.


'People who go to country dances are polite and dress neat,' says Steve, 'and they do a waltz related to kwadril, our traditional folk dance.' As we drive around listening to such tunes, I'm struck by the vivid beauty of an island with both French and British influences, reflected in place names such as


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