DE S T INAT IONS
A 32 DE CEMB E R 2 0 18
lengthy spit of sand and hollows jutting into the Atlantic, Cape Cod has long been a place of ebb and flow. The landscape itself seems
transient, the shores of breezy dunes and freshwater kettle ponds constantly shifting their boundaries. Created from piles of glacial moraine as the last ice sheet receded, its days are numbered; it now has less than 5,000 years to go before the ocean consumes it. But right now, it’s New England’s holiday destination for visitors of all stripes: non-stop partying weekenders from Boston and New York, beachcombing families from New England, and plutocrats and presidents who jet in from Washington DC to their compounds – a tradition begun by the Kennedys. Cape Cod and its two islands – Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket – is a place where you come to meet people, but also to escape; to eat the seaside dishes our grandparents ate, but also to push out the boat with some cutting-edge cuisine. Most striking of all, though, is the
light and the scenery; mile after mile of white sand beaches, backed by the bleached-bone white of clapboard houses and weathered cedar shingles. Eventually you get to Provincetown at the very tip, where the Mayflower first landed before moving on and leaving it for the Nauset Indians. The European settlement of the Upper Cape came much later.
The Outer Cape began attracting summer visitors for its isolation and wild beauty during the 1930s
ABOVE: Stars and Stripes decorate a shingle house in Provincetown, Cape Cod, which was the site of the Mayflower’s landing in 1620
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Boston’s Logan airport is the best arrival point. There are hourly buses to Hyannis, transport hub of the Mid Cape, and a good express ferry running to Provincetown. To get to the two main islands, the Steamship Authority runs regular ferry trips for foot passengers from several ports; cars must be booked in advance. The simplest and best way to explore the Cape is by car; it’s a two-hour
drive from Logan airport to the port of Hyannis, three or more to Provincetown. Hertz has an airport branch with very fast pick-up and returns when you sign up for the (free) Gold Plus membership. One week’s hire via
hertz.com costs from around US$393.
bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om
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