4 Explore St Andrews


Put on the map by the patron saint, this Scottish coastal town is at its best off -season. Words: Sarah Gillespie


In medieval times, the bones of St Andrew, patron saint of Scotland’s Pictish people, were brought to a small, wind-worn town atop a sandstone plateau in Fife, on the country’s east coast. T ese relics conferred such celebrity that a bishop took up residence, a great cathedral was commissioned and the town — now known as St Andrews — became the country’s ecclesiastical capital. Today, St Andrews’ ruined,


roofl ess cathedral yawns at the heavens, and parts of the town’s medieval castle have tumbled into the sea. You might think this would dent St Andrews’ appeal — quite the opposite. T ese skeletal remains give the town’s coastline a spectral beauty that’s best appreciated in winter, after the golfers that descend each summer have cleared out. Another draw is that Fife’s spirits


industry — once feared dead — has reawakened, with whisky and gin distilleries putting the region back on the map. T e best place to try them is at a traditional pub or by a hotel fi re, after a windswept walk between desolate beaches.


What’s there to do? Ruined though the castle may be, it still cuts a handsome fi gure — especially when the low winter sun gilds its walls in gold. Inside, you’ll get insights into the violent events leading to the 16th-century Scottish Reformation. Peer at the


dungeon into which Protestant infi ltrators threw the murdered body of Catholic cardinal David Beaton in 1546, then explore the damp, moss-furred tunnels dug during the resulting siege. Afterwards, cure your claustrophobia by inhaling the sea air at the pebble-strewn Castle Beach below. At West Sands, you’ll fi nd a bigger,


sandier beach with tousled dunes, made famous by its role in the opening scenes of the 1981 classic Chariots of Fire. Twitchers will fi nd much to delight them among the sands: egrets, eiders, curlews and lots of geese. If the wind starts to bite, retreat


into town to explore the university, founded in 1413; it supplies a self- guided walking tour of its buildings, including St Salvator’s Chapel. historicenvironment.scot st-andrews.ac.uk


Where are the best places to stay? T is year, Ruffl ets, a carbon-neutral hotel set on a country estate west of town, launched four self-contained shepherd’s huts billed as Woodland Suites. Each has a wood-burning stove and a free-standing copper tub for banishing the chill. T e roof is fi tted with a skylight, facilitating stargazing from your bed. For something more central,


check in to Haar Restaurant & Rooms. T e chef is Arbroath native (and 2018 MasterChef: T e Professionals fi nalist) Dean Banks.


Where should I visit to sample the fi nest local food & drink? T e view from 18, Rusacks hotel’s rooftop restaurant, stretches from the 18th hole of the Old Course to the West Sands and the North Sea. Settle into its dimly lit, wood- panelled space and order the reasonably priced afternoon tea, which comes with haggis sausage rolls and tarts made with Fife strawberries. Or for something more substantial, head to T e Criterion — a family-owned pub established in 1874 that’s all maroon leather and tartan banquettes. Eden Mill’s anticipated distillery


and visitor centre is due to open in nearby Guardbridge in 2025. In the meantime, take a 20-minute bus ride east from the city centre to sample drams in the wood- beamed tasting room of Kingsbarns Distillery, or try gin at its sister distillery Darnley’s — both off er tours. If the drinks loosen you up for some dancing, head to the Forgan’s St Andrews for one of its free ceilidh gatherings accompanied by a folk band. Check the website for dates. 18standrews.co.uk criterionstandrews co.uk kingsbarnsdistillery.com forgansstandrews.co.uk


T is article fi rst appeared in the December 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read it in full at nationalgeographic.com/travel


DISCOVER THE STUNNING WEST SANDS BEACH/ALAMY


30TH JANUARY 2025


THE TRAVEL GUIDE DISTRIBUTED WITH


STARGAZE FROM BED AT RUFFLETS /GIANNI BUONSANTE


EXPLORE THE CATHEDRAL RUINS/ALAMY


If you follow the Kinness Burn from sea to source, you’ ll walk through the Lade Braes — a beautiful woodland with great wildlife and an old water mill,” said Harry Watkins, St Andrews Botanic Garden


3 2 Winter adventures


Clever design and high-tech materials mean these essentials can withstand everything from lashing rain to snow and ice. Words: Amanda Canning and Lorna Parkes


1 8 1 The North Face


Insulated Trousers T ese trousers are windproof and waterproof, so you’re guaranteed to stay dry no matter how many times you fall over, while the synthetic insulation keeps you warm but not sweaty. T ere’s an adjustable waistband to allow for layering in comfort. £135. thenorthface.co.uk


2 Revolution Race Phantom 7 5


Trail Mid Hiking Boots Great value for such a robust and comfortable pair of boots, the Phantom Trails are lightweight, breathable and waterproof. Available for men and women in a variety of colours. £169. revolutionrace.co.uk


3 Finisterre Stormbird Water- 6 4


proof Jacket Roomy enough to fi t over several layers, this lightweight waterproof jacket has an adjustable hem, Velcro cuff s and curved peak hood. Available for both men and women. £250. fi nisterre.com


4 Arc’teryx Rho Bottoms


T e warmest base layer from outdoor specialist Arc’teryx, these men’s thermals are soft and comfy. T e Polartec fl eece fabric off ers protection against the chill, while its moisture-wicking properties keep away sweat. T e range is available for women under the Kyanite name. £110. arcteryx.com


5 Gandys Malmo Fleece Hoodie


T is half-zip fl eece has elasticated cuff s, a hood and a kangaroo pocket. For every purchase, 10% goes to projects supported by the Gandys Foundation, working with charities to fund education in some of the world’s poorest countries. £80. gandysinternational.com


6 Mountain Equipment Women’s


Touch Screen Grip Gloves T ese insulated gloves are great for winter adventures. T e palms are overlaid with a silicone print to ensure grip and the fi ngertips are touchscreen compatible. £40. cotswoldoutdoor.com


7 BUFF Polar


Multifunctional Neckwear T is neck warmer has two distinct parts. Its base is made of a soft fl eece to protect the throat from the elements, while the upper half is elasticated, allowing the wearer to pull it over the head or face. Made with 97% recycled materials. £26.95. buff .com


8 Fjällräven Expedition Down


Lite Jacket Water- and wind-resistant, this down jacket will keep you toasty warm in the harshest conditions. Drawcords round the hood and bottom keep out cold air, and fi ve large pockets are great for gloves, hats and valuables. It packs down into a small bag, making it easy to squish into luggage or an overhead locker. £560. fjallraven.com


T is article fi rst appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read it in full at nationalgeographic.com/travel


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