IMAGE: GETTY
SPECIAL FEATURE: JAPAN
A brown bear fishing
for salmon in a river in Rausu, Hokkaido
a good look without fear of mauling. He’s a young bear — perhaps only a few years old. I note his sloping back and powerful shoulders, and the deep plush of his coat. He’s using his giant paws and snout to rip into a gelatinous squid, and stops to eye us up briefly before returning to his meal. The indigenous people of Hokkaido,
the Ainu, revered bears as spirit guardians, although their fortunes took a turn for the worse with the arrival of Japanese settlers who hunted them as pests. Today, brown bears are back on top, encouraged to thrive in these forests, where they graze on shoots and fish. We continue, and spot five more bears across the steep bluffs, including an adorable cub, which elicits squeals of “kawaii!” (cute) from my crewmates. On the final stretch, heading to
the cape, we’re engulfed by fog. I lose sight of the landscape first, then Mai’s boat. We cut the engine to avoid a collision and float in the dense cloud. It’s thoroughly spooky. I search the captain’s face for any signs of hunger. He seems unperturbed, and Mai’s disembodied voice crackles reassurance through the speaker every
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natgeotraveller.co.uk
THE YOUNG BEAR STOPS TO EYE US UP BEFORE RETURNING TO HIS MEAL
few minutes. When the fog shiſts — almost as quickly as it rolled in — there’s blue sky and a clear horizon. Shiretoko Cape is in full view with its striped lighthouse. I notice for the first time the flimsy, white jellyfish pulsing through kelp in the water around us. Across the straight we can see the mountainous silhouette of Sakhalin Island, occupied by the Russians since WWII. There’s a few minutes of peaceful
bobbing before we race back to port. I realise I’m driſting at the physical and conceptual periphery of Japan — a world away from the neon lights and modern skyscrapers of Tokyo. The first peoples of Hokkiado considered this point the end of the world, but now, it’s a window back in time to the beginning.
shiretoko-rausu-lincle.com
ESSENTIALS Getting there
Airlines including BRITISH AIRWAYS offer daily direct flights to Tokyo from the UK. Connect to Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, Memanbetsu Airport or Kushiro Airport using carriers such as Japan Airlines and Air Do.
ba.com jal.com airdo.jp
Getting around A car is necessary to access the wildest corners of Hokkaido. Rental is available at most airports, but book ahead. Alternatively, employ a driver and English- speaking guide through an operator like HOKKAIDO TREASURE ISLAND TRAVEL, who can organise bespoke itineraries.
hokkaido-sightseeing.com/en
When to go
The warm summer season in Hokkaido is perfect for hiking and is the best time to spot whales and brown bears (average temp. 22C). Autumn brings spectacular fall colours, while winter is famous for snow sports (average temp. -4C).
Produced in association with HOKKAIDO TOURISM ORGANIZATION.
en.visit-hokkaido.jp
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