SMART TRAVELLER


STAY AT HOME SHETLAND


Scotland’s northernmost frontier is a truly remote escape, with prehistoric history and fine seafood to boot


Why go Thanks to its historic Scandinavian ties, today, the Shetland Islands is an intriguing blend of Scottish and Nordic culture — in fact, its remote location in the North Atlantic means it’s actually closer to Bergen than to Edinburgh. It’s a far-flung choice for a UK break that offers up plenty of opportunity for adventure. Travellers can hike along the jagged coastline, try their luck at spotting orcas and puffins, stumble across an Iron Age settlement or just hop in the car and drive through the islands’ windswept landscape (looking out for those famous little ponies en route, of course). visitscotland.com


What to do Archaeological sites are everywhere on Shetland: Jarlshof is one of the finest, situated on a dramatic headland at the southern tip of the mainland. Here, visitors will find the remains of a settlement spanning 4,000 years that contains everything from Iron Age wheelhouses to a 16th-century laird’s house. For an even older sight, take a trip to Eshaness peninsula. Follow the path along the coastline from the lighthouse to see the cross-section and layers of solidified lava flows of a 350-million-year- old volcano. historicenvironment.scot shetland-heritage.co.uk/eshaness


Don’t miss Shetland’s capital, Lerwick, features a gorgeous winding high street where, at the southern end, you’ll find the lodberries, a collection of water-fronted cottages and storehouses once used by merchants for easy access to the water. Look familiar? One of them stands in for the home of Detective Jimmy Perez in BBC’s crime drama Shetland.


Where to eat At Frankie’s, you’ll find battered haddock and chunky chips, but you’ll also see steaming bowls of mussels and scallops. Over in Lerwick, The Dowry is a modern cafe with Nordic vibes and views out to the harbour. It serves beautifully presented mains and is also a good place to try Shetland’s local ale, brewed a mile up the road at Lerwick Brewery. frankiesfishandchips.com instagram. com/thedowryshetland lerwickbrewery.co.uk


Where to stay Sumburgh Head Lighthouse perches precipitously on the southern tip of mainland Shetland. Bed down in the former lightkeeper’s house, which has walls so thick you’ll barely notice if there’s a storm raging outside. And look out for orcas — this is one of the best spots to see them from land. shetlandlighthouse.com GAIL TOLLEY


WE LIKE


Two short ferry rides from the mainland gets you to Unst, home to a remote gin distillery, Shetland Reel, which does tours during the summer. A stroll through Hermaness National Nature Reserve takes you within sight of the island of Muckle Flugga, the UK’s most northerly point. Or, explore the headland at Skaw that’s dotted with Second World War bunkers. shetlandreel.com


ABOVE: Shetland pony grazing on the island of Unst


Jul/Aug 2020 27


IMAGE: GETTY


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