’m hurtling along a dirt track in a nine-seat 4x4, with binoculars bouncing around my neck and my
eyes firmly peeled. Our tour guide, Janko, is driving pedal to the metal after receiving a call on his radio tipping him off about the location of some big cats. I hold my breath as we race
across the park to the fabled spot. South Africa’s Welgevonden
Game Reserve is home to every member of the ‘big five’ – a term originally describing the animals hardest to hunt but now used as a conservationist catch-all for lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo – while giraffes and zebras are particularly abundant. ²