NATURALS


eventually predict gel hardness is an important tool in cosmetic formulations. In another series of experiments2


, we collected


and documented gel strength data for each of the three aforementioned waxes in several different cosmetic oil media, factoring in different chemical types, polarities and viscosities. They were all categorised as ‘moderate’ thickeners with a tendency to crystallise in the media they gel. This means they are not recommended for


use as sole structurants in bars, sticks or balms. However, they are all excellent at increasing the formula hardness, with minimal effects on other properties, like melt point. The exception is stearyl stearate. Due to its higher molecular weight and higher melt point, it can provide structure to an anhydrous formula on its own, depending on the use level and oil/wax compatibility.


Summary & conclusions Kester Waxes are indicated for use in all cosmetic formulations, and their different properties allow cosmetic formulators to control the outcome of their finished formulas. Table 8 summarises their functions in different finished formulations. Empty boxes indicate that the particular wax is not suggested, while asterisks indicate it is appropriate for use. The higher the number of asterisks, the better the fit.


References: 1. Sarkar R, Podder I, Gokhale N. Jagadeesan S, Garg VK. Use of vegetable oils in


TABLE 8: PROPERTIES OF KOSTER KEUNEN WAXES Property


Anhydrous systems


Emulsion systems


Primary structurant


Secondary structurant / Added harness


Opacity/Whiteness Emulsion ‘body’ Viscosity


Reduce ‘soaping’ effect


dermatology: An overview. Int. J. Dermatol. 2017, 56(11): 1080-1086


2. Archambault JC, Bonte F. Grasas Vegetales en Cosmetologia. Revista Boliviana de Quimica. 2021, 38(2): 68-79


3. Berdick, M. The role of fats & oils in cosmetics. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 1972, 49: 406–408


4. Fiume MM et al. Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics. Int. J. Toxicol. 2015, 34(2): 5S-69S


5. Abrutyn ES. Skin care moisturisers. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 31 May 2013. https://www. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas- products/skin-care/blog/21837656/skin-care- moisturizers (accessed January 28, 2022).


PC


6. Christie WW. Waxes, Lipid MAPS Lipidomics Gateway. https://www.lipidmaps.org/ resources/lipidweb/index.php?page=lipids/ simple/waxes/index.htm (retrieved 17 January 2021)


**


*** ** * *


*** *** ***


** *


Kester Wax K-48 (Cetyl Palmitate)


Kester Wax K-56 (Cetyl Stearate)


Kester Wax K-59 (Stearyl Stearate)


*


*** ***


* * *


7. Pappas A. Epidermal surface lipids. Dermato-endocrinology.2009, 1(2): 72-76


8. Eberting CL, Coman G, Blickenstaff N. Repairing a compromised skin barrier in dermatitis: Leveraging the skin’s ability to heal itself. J. Allergy Ther. 2014, 5: 187


9. Final report on the safety assessment of octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate & isopropyl palmitate. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr238.pdf (accessed 14 January 2022)


10. Mintel. http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/gnpd/ search (accessed 13 January 2022)


11. Fiume MM et al. Safety assessment of cetearyl heptanoate & related stearyl alkanoates as used in cosmetics. Int. J. Toxicol. 2012, 31(2): 141S-146S


12. Lemieux BM. Five waxes & an infinite range of textures. Personal Care. January 2021:61-64


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Reprinted from March 2022 PERSONAL CARE


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