NATURALS


CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■


10000 9000 8000 7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0


0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #1


Figure 1: Viscosity changes with wax addition (Base 1, Formulas 1-11)


emollient, and also contributes a specific body and texture to cream and lotion products.9 Mintel classifies it as a skin conditioning and masking agent, with its main uses in Q4 2021 being in skin care (70% of launches), followed by hair care (15%).10 After multiple experiments, we found that


cetyl palmitate had something else to offer to finished emulsion formulas: a bright white opacity in almost all systems tested, regardless of emulsifier type or oil phase loading. In some emulsions, the change in opacity was visible at only 2% loading. Generally, opacity increased with the percentage of cetyl palmitate. Cetyl stearate is classified by most personal


care resources as an emollient. Mintel classifies it as a skin conditioning agent and this accounted for all product launches in Q4 2021.10


Again, our lab showed that cetyl


stearate is also a very effective emulsion opacifier, with similar results as when using cetyl palmitate. Our studies also showed that cetyl stearate


increased emulsion viscosity, in many cases as effectively as cetearyl alcohol, making it a multi-functional ingredient. Furthermore, we studied the effects of cetyl stearate in anhydrous formulations and found it to have moderate gelling properties, thus making it a secondary structurant. When used in conjunction with a typical primary structurant,


CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■


800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0


0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #1


Figure 4: Complex modulus changes with wax addition (Base 1, Formulas 1-11)


www.personalcaremagazine.com 6 7 6 7


CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■


10000 9000 8000 7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0


0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #2


Figure 2: Viscosity changes with wax addition (Base 2, Formulas 12-22)


TABLE 4 – FORMULATION OF BASE 3 Phase A


Ingredients


Deionised Water Disodium EDTA Optiphen Glycerin


Citric Acid B


Kostol TMC-25 AR Cocoa Butter Cetyl Alcohol Schercodine S Belsil DM 100


Test waxes/control waxes INCI Aqua Disodium EDTA


Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Glycerin


Citric Acid


Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter Cetyl Alcohol


Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimethicone TBD


it increased stick hardness without disrupting the rest of the properties. Stearyl stearate is classified by personal


care resources as an emollient, skin conditioner and viscosity-controlling ingredient.11


Mintel


classifies it as a skin conditioning and viscosity- controlling ingredient, with current uses being in colour cosmetics (65% of launches in Q4 2021), followed by skin care (30%).10 Our studies have shown that stearyl


stearate is also an emulsion opacifier with little effect on viscosity, similar to cetyl palmitate. The most notable difference happens in


CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■


40000 35000 30000 25000 20000 15000 10000 5000 0


0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #2


Figure 5: Complex modulus changes with wax addition (Base 2, Formulas 12-22)


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2


CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■


25000 20000 15000 10000 5000 0


0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #3


Figure 3: Viscosity changes with wax addition (Base 3, Formulas 23-33)


% w/w q.s.


0.05 1.0


5.0 0.6 6.0 1.0


3.0 2.0 4.0


0-6


anhydrous formulations: at the right levels, stearyl stearate can be used as the sole system structurant.


Formulating emulsions Due to their lipidic nature, waxes must be formulated into the oil phase of any emulsion and stabilised with a proper emulsifier. Their incorporation into the oil phase can change the emulsion in different ways, for example, building viscosity or increasing spreadability. Due to compositional differences, waxes are not readily interchangeable in emulsions.12


CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■


7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0


0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #3


Figure 6: Complex modulus changes with wax addition (Base 3, Formulas 23-33)


Reprinted from March 2022 PERSONAL CARE 6 7 6 7


Modulus G’ (Pa)


Viscosity (cP)


Modulus G’ (Pa)


Viscosity (cP)


Modulus G’ (Pa)


Viscosity (cP)


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