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Although George IV’s descendants William IV and Queen Victoria frequented the Royal Pavilion, the Queen remarked that it was ‘a strange, odd, Chinese place’; she found the property too small for her growing family and purchased Osborne House on the Isle of Wight. In 1850 the Royal Pavilion was sold to the city of Brighton for approximately £50,000 and Queen Victoria requested that the building was to be stripped of all items, which were then transported to either Buckingham Palace or Windsor Castle. A large number of these items have been returned, on loan, by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, and many of them have not been seen by the public.


I was keen to explore the site and hopped on a local bus bound for the Royal Pavilion. The interior of the exotic property reflects a fusion of Regency splendour, Indian and Chinese styles and a kaleidoscope of vibrant colours. I was particularly impressed with the banqueting room, which is adorned with enormous sparkling chandeliers, art works and golden dragons galore. I was reliably informed that the prince did not sit at the end of the very long dining table but in the very centre so that he would be privy to several conversations. After dining on an extravagant menu of 32 dishes, which would last for up to six hours, guests would then head to the sumptuous lounge to relax or perhaps succumb to forty winks and then gather in the music room beneath the gilded domed ceiling festooned with hundreds of plaster cockleshells and where in 1823, Rossini performed.


After exploring the enormous kitchen and the king’s bedroom I made my way to the Royal Pavilion gardens, which have been fully restored following John Nash’s 1820’s plans. The colourful collection of plants and flowers includes fifteen varieties of rose, rosemary, sweet Williams, lavender, blue larkspurs, peonies, hollyhocks and foxgloves.


With the fragrant scents of blooms in my nostrils I headed for the promenade beside the sea and as I sauntered along at a leisurely pace passing Brighton Pier, and with my ice cream cornet melting in my hand, I looked up at a flock of sea gulls squawking


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overhead and spotted another popular attraction. The British Airways i360 observation tower soars 162 metres into the blue sky and it’s a delightful experience. This ‘vertical pier’ features a fully enclosed glass viewing pod, which is very spacious, and as it gently glides up and down passengers are afforded spectacular panoramic views across Brighton, the South Downs and the glorious English Channel.


Back on terra firma I noticed the Regency Restaurant, a thriving family business, founded in 1963, which is located on the Kings Road overlooking the elegant Regency Square and opposite the i360. I selected an outside table and whilst bathed in the warmth of the sunlight I devoured the juicy Mediterranean platter, which includes the fish of the day, mussels, clams, scallops and king prawns and accompanied by the dry and elegant Chablis 2018, it was sublime.


TRAVE L BRIGHTON


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