ANGERS ❘ CITY FOCUS


Angers’s magnifi cent château, as seen here from the skies, is the perfect place to start your visit to this historic city


5 MUST-DO EXPERIENCES With a wealth of historic architecture, art galleries, gardens and museums, it can be hard to know where to start in Angers. To cut down on dithering time, kick-start your visit by checking out our top fi ve attractions:


CASTLE AND APOCALYPSE TAPESTRY The whole rampart walk is now accessible, offering great views over the castle precincts, Old Town and riverbanks. The Monument Café in the castle grounds serves delicious savoury and sweet dishes in verrines (small glass pots). Eat inside the Governor’s lodging or in the garden. www.chateau-angers.fr


GALERIE DAVID D’ANGERS


This enchanting small gallery is stuffed to the rafters with sculptures, busts and friezes of all sizes, as well as studio casts and drawings, all housed in a magnifi cent 13th-century ‘ruined’ abbey church with a glass roof which illuminates the exhibits to maximum effect. www.musees.angers.fr


JEAN LURÇAT MUSEUM


Stunning contemporary tapestries by Jean Lurçat are displayed at the former St John’s Hospital, founded around 1180 under the instigation of Henry II of England. Check out the tranquil garden, pharmaceutical jars, and the remains of a 17th-century cloister. www.musees.angers.fr


TERRA BOTANICA


Opened in 2010, Terra Botanica is Europe’s only theme park dedicated to plants. With a mix of beautiful gardens and greenhouses, fun activities and educational elements, discover the world through its 275,000 species and exceptional collections of orchids, roses, palm trees and more. www.terrabotanica.fr


BALLOON OVER THE LOIRE For an unforgettable special treat, head out of town to enjoy a serene fl ight over the Anjou countryside with Montgolfi ères d’Anjou. Prices are: Monday to Friday evenings, €200 per person; weekend or public holiday evenings, €230; sunrise, €380. montgolfi eres.fr


and it hung there until the Revolution. Considered surplus to requirements, the tapestry was offered for sale, but when no buyer came forward, the panels were put into storage before being cut up and distributed piecemeal. Then in the 19th century, a canon from the cathedral set about tracking it down, even fi nding one piece in use as a saddlecloth. And whilst few parts were found from the sixth panel – perhaps the fi rst to be cut up and given away – a surprising number were recovered and are now displayed in a purpose-built gallery. The castle and tapestry are both accessible free to holders of an Angers City Pass (24, 48 or 72 hours, from €15), which can be bought from the Tourist Offi ce opposite the château, but be aware that some attractions are closed on Mondays. While you’re there, pick up a map to the self-guided tourist trail through the Old Town and across the Maine; but don’t set off before popping into the nearby Anjou Wines to discover the local vintages – red, white, rosé and sparkling. For an atmospheric place to stay in the heart of the Old Town, book one of fi ve rooms at L’Oisellerie, just behind the cathedral. This 16th-century timber-framed property has been beautifully restored


❯❯ Dec/Jan 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 51


IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK. GILLIAN THORNTON


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