CITY FOCUS ❘ ROUEN


ANGERS


CITY FOCUS ANGERS Gillian Thornton hits the high spots of Anjou’s historic capital


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rom my lofty vantage point on the broad ramparts of Angers’s medieval fortress, the high points of this attractive city stand proud above the rooftops, an open invitation to explore. Dominating the Old Town are the soaring twin towers of the cathedral and the bell tower of Saint- Aubin, whilst further out, I can clearly see the huge yellow balloon that marks the Terra Botanica theme park. There’s plenty more to enjoy in Angers than medieval masonry, but by starting your tour at the castle you can enjoy two of the city’s highlights in one visit. Situated close to the confl uence of the rivers Loire and Maine – where France’s longest river joins one of its shortest – Angers gave its name to the Anjou region, birthplace of England’s Plantagenet dynasty. The bigwigs here were fi rst counts, then dukes, but never kings of France; although the last Duke, René of Anjou, held the titles of King of Naples and Sicily in the 15th century. When he died without an heir in 1480, Anjou was annexed to France by King Louis XI.


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Castles rarely pack a more powerful punch than this one, which dominates the banks of the Maine with 17 towers set into ramparts nearly half a kilometre long. Built from local black schist, it is patterned with white tuffeau stone, familiar from châteaux further east along the Loire Valley. Visit the 15th-century Royal Residence, admire the Angevin vaulting in the castle chapel, and wander through the gardens, both inside the walls and in the moat. Then head up onto the parapet for that sweeping bird’s-eye view. Angers Castle is also home to the vast Apocalypse Tapestry, the


world’s largest medieval tapestry. Commissioned in 1375 by Louis I, Duke of Anjou and brother to King Charles V, it is made entirely of wool and depicts the prophetic visions of St John – the struggle between Good and Evil – as written in the Book of Revelations in 1AD. The six huge tapestries are split into detailed scenes, top and bottom, woven on alternating red and blue backgrounds. The workmanship is outstanding, but I fi nd myself equally fascinated by the story. Originally displayed in the courtyard of the Archbishopric of Arles, the tapestry was bequeathed to Angers Cathedral by King René


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